Dry River Wilderness, Presidential Range

(Isolation-47)

If ever there was a time to feel alone in the mountains, I suspect it would be now as head deep into the Dry River Wilderness to Mount Isolation. Though I doubt it will be the case as I have always had company on this journey, even when wandering solo to remote places. Times are very rare in the heavily traveled Whites when you have the trail all to yourself for the entire day. Even when it does happen, I have always felt a presence of something bigger than any number of miles I could ever cover in all the mountains of the earth, watching over me. It’s a very comforting feeling. Be that as it may, I will roam the paths that stretch in and around an interesting roundabout route to this peak that boasts to bring one to seclusion. At best, “solitude” might be a better word, but even that is not likely, at least not for the entire day of 13.3 miles and 3900 ft of elevation gain.

I want to take the Glen Boulder from Pinkham Notch to Davis Path route in and return via Isolation East to Rocky Branch. I’ve been spending the week struggling with logistics, trying to figure out the best way to do this. On one hand I could spot my bike at one end then drive to the start point, but the road from Rocky Branch to Glen Ellis Falls is an uphill 4-mile ride and I think I should save my energy for the hike. Then there are all kinds of options for hiker shuttle services, AMC shuttle not being one, but I’m having a hard time getting someone to call me back from the private services. In the end, after much deliberation, and after some assurance from a few folks in a NH48 Facebook group, I am sticking out the ole thumb and banking on a ride to the Falls after a car-spot at my finishing point. Sure enough after about a minute I get picked up by a local fellow on his way North on route 16 to Gorham – All that worrying for nothing!

So all systems go for my next landmark on the way to my ultimate White Mountain goal the one obstacle standing in my way before I take my finishing steps. What a day that is shaping up to be! Quite different than this lone-wolf march I am on today. Garfield will see a large portion of the Coste Clan, and potentially a few friends too when autumn arrives and I complete this crazy list that has been my main drive and focus over the past 2 years. There is quite a large chunk of time between now and then, but I plan to put a dent in some of my next lists, first and foremost the ADK46.

In fact, I have already made some good progress, spending the past week in the high peaks, checking off Giant, Rocky Peak Ridge, Porter, Cascade, Whiteface and Esther to add to the 7 Peaks from last summer. I’m well on my way to catching my sister Therese who has completed 19 of them to this point. And speaking of my sister, there will be one more very important hike after this and prior to my finish on Garfield. We are planning an overnight backpack trip to relive our first white mountain hike together (with brother Paul) when we were youngsters, heading into the remote Pemi Wilderness to the Bonds. Looks like Paul wont be able to make it, as he lives in North Carolina now and could not make the trip this time, but will be with us in spirit.

As I have said before, I have a fond memory of our early day hikes, but it is a foggy one in comparison to the detailed picture I have for any of the other 48 which have done within the past 2 years. We are working in Zealand and possibly Hale to this trip as well, which will renew all 5 peaks from the early days. But presently my focus is here and now in the deepest of Whites. Isolation here I come!

Beginning my day at 7:30am at the Glen Ellis Falls lot. I’m ready for a full day in the wilderness. After less than a mile in, and a few stretches of rocky, moderately steep grades I get some peaks at the Cats and Carters through the trees. Then I emerge for the first time from timberline and get some grand views, that would only get grander as the day progressed. It’s one of those well balanced skies of blue and billow.

Bluebird days are nice but I think clouds add so much. About an hour into the day and I’m hitting some rock scrambles. I just love hanging out above the trees. Whenever I first arrive it’s like being transported to a different world. I see Glen Boulder in the distance, a top-heavy rock strangely balanced by its bottom point on a ledge.

As I make my way closer with the sun shimmering against the glowing clouds the views are expanding with every step. The spirit of the mountain is alive today.

I arrive at the slanted stone just before 9 am for a break and the obligatory pose in time delay mode. The clouds are really trying to steal the show today as they mimic their counterparts below.

Pinkham Notch road is about to disappear from view as I continue my climb up the Boot spur of Mount Washington which seems to be engulfed in more clouds today. A few minutes later the views over Gulf of Slides and more looks over to the Wildcats and Cater range are simply astounding!

 

A brief dip back into the trees and then out again arriving at Slide Peak (4806) with even wider views into the gulf and over to Split Rock. Approaching 5000 ft the clouds are becoming more ominous and are moving in quickly to engulf the area. (Click for video of clouds rollin in on Slide Peak). It doesn’t look threatening but definitely interesting.

As the sky continues its dance, I move into the dense fog and arrive at Davis Path on the shoulder of Boot Spur to some fierce winds and severely limited visibility. Reminiscent of my days on Moosilauke and Madison, I struggle to stay upright against the powerful gusts, but I am managing. It is here that perhaps I do feel somewhat “isolated”.  Its an unnerving feeling not being able to see where you are, where you’ve been, or where you are going, and having your ears blown out by fierce gusts of wind that seem at times like they could pick you up and throw you in any direction they choose without the slightest effort.

(click for video of Winds and Clouds on Boot Spur)

I start heading down Davis Path toward Montalban ridge where the peak of Isolation awaits but the feeling of isolation will likely subside. As I do, I can see visibility improving, just as the dark shadows rapidly move in and blanket the area. Reminds me of that scene in Fantasia. Cue “Night on Bald Mountain” theme. Then the threatening skies diminish once again, when the veil moves out as quick as it arrived. Quite a show indeed! Just me the mountains and the sky, with Iso in view ahead within the Dry River Wilderness.

 

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But wait, was that a banjo I hear? Nope just a strange looking bird that seems to care less of my presence. I stroll along the path and take note of the subtle differences: a splash of red berries to my right, a scattering of wild mushrooms ala Alice to my left.

I look up in time to avoid a wrap on the head from a crossing downed limb at forehead level (why it’s important to look up from the trail, not to mention all the view you would miss), and then some more strolling before coming to an aged faded sign indicating the junction of Davis Path and Isolation Trail West branch.

Shortly after, a brand spanking new sign at the Iso-east branch trail junction to which I will return later, but first I continue straight on Davis for another mile to search for a tiny faded sign which will be the turnoff for Isolation summit. A few spots give me some looks back at the chaos on Boot, and then a startling sound – footsteps, something I haven’t heard yet today. The lone hiker and I exchange the typical mountain greeting and then another surprise – another shiny new sign, complete with that new sign smell. I have reached the turnoff and #47 is within my grasp.

As I approach the summit, I hear the faded chatter of voices growing louder with each step. So even here on Isolation, I am not alone. I arrive at last at the northern ledge to wide open views everywhere, especially North to Washington, Monroe and the Dry River Valley, and to the Northwest at the southern Presis and the Willey Range.

Behind me through some scrub are the voices of a few groups hangin out at the true summit. I make my way through the brush to the left (not realizing there is an easier way to the right) and finally arrive at the summit cairn and marker for my second to last victory.

I chat a while with the other two duo groups, one of which are camping down near one of the former sites of Rocky Branch shelter, and the other of which are completing #39 today and are planning a Presi-traverse in early autumn to finish right about the same time I plan on finishing. I learned later that they are from Norwood, close to my home town – small world. The chit chat dwindles after a photo favor from the 2^nd group as they head out back toward Boot Spur & Glen Boulder for some more chaos. My descent should be much more mellow down by way of the first groups campsite.

(click here for video of ISOLATION Summit)

First I am taking advantage of the now deserted summit for some solitude as I linger a while longer and soak in the grand views. Then it’s time to get back to work for a 7.3 mile descent down Iso-east and Rocky Branch.

The first part of the outward trek is a soggy one with lots of green moss covered drought stricken stream beds and mud patches.

Remember playing in the mud when you were a kid? I get to be a kid a lot these days! My Merrells have seen better days though after the wear and tear of all these squishy miles since that day in 2014 at Sports Authority when they were shiny and new. When this quest is complete I will have to treat myself to a new pair, as well as a new day pack which has also served me well on this first of many journeys to come. Further down the trail, the streams are now flowing with ice cold goodness. I don’t really need a refill but after the long day, I swap out my semi warm supply with the fresh offerings of nature. This is a nice mellow descent but certainly one of the more soggy & longer ones, but not nearly as soggy as my Owl’s Head ordeal.

That’s one thing this day is giving me, is plenty of time to reflect on all of the challenges, all of the lessons, all of the experiences, all of the wondrous lush sanctuaries and hideaways, all of the peaks and valleys, all of the unforeseen gifts I have been blessed with through the many adventures taken over this short, but oh so meaningful stretch of time. My favorites are still fresh in my mind and always in my heart as I put the finishing touches on today’s journey.

All of these memories have been coming flooding back in recent hikes. The awakening on Franconia ridge, the rugged and raw beauty of King’s Ravine, the majestic crests of the Presidential Range, the peace solitude of a night on Osceola, the earie forest of foggy Waumbek, the winter wonderlands inside Crawford and Pinkham Notch, the long slog through the remote reaches of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, and so many more! Numerous regrets, uncertainties, fears, insecurities, and inner struggles have been confronted and washed away in these hills and I will be forever thankful. At the same time there have been the carefree days that simply offer a fun retreat from the rigorous hustle and bustle of the daily grind, and have given me a renewed perspective and have reprioritized what is truly important and significant in my life. All this from the mere act of putting one foot in front of the other and repeating. I will never underestimate the value of the decision to take that first step, and will never take for granted these blessings.