Kinsman & Presidential Ranges

(Moosilauke -28, Eisenhower-29)

 PART 1:  Mother Nature hands out no refunds. But you can return anytime you like to catch her in a better mood. So I knew as her wind attempted to snatch the sandwich from my grasp, that I would return to see what lies beyond this orange summit sign and the mass of this curtain of gray before me. Just when you get comfortable with mother nature she seems to let you know who’s boss. It’s always a very humbling experience and reminds you how small your grand plan really is. Still, I have seen way too many spectacular summit view pictures from previous visitors of the Moose to not return and witness them for myself, but it would not on this day. Instead I was greeted with a fog covered summit with fierce winds unseasonably chilly temps and rain remnants whipping around. Flashbacks of my day on Madison reminded me of my list of re-dos and I knew this would join them. I felt more secure on this summit than Maddie and lingered probably longer than most on this day to observe Mother’s tantrum. I put my sandwich back in the pack and sat to get my eardrums blown out a bit. After a particularly violent gust, I literally found myself saying out loud, “Alright, alright I heard ya Mah! I’m leavin just gimme a sec and quit yer bitch’n!” She responded with an even louder gust as if to say “YOU ARE NOT WELCOME! BE GONE NOW!” So I made my way down the mountain vowing to return when she was in a better mood.     

(click here for a windy wet moose video)

The weekend started with a bigger plan. Once again I was trying to get in my revisit overnight trip in the Bonds, and once again that plan was squashed with things like sleep deprivation. In fact, I had slept so late this time, that I almost gave up on any hope of a hike in the Whites. As I lay discouraged, staring at the ceiling, squinting from the sun that was already coming through the shades, I got a few texts from my sister that lifted my spirits. Therese was following up our epic trip in the ADK’s a few weekends back with another day trip (on Giant I think) and texted me a few beautiful summit pics. This was all the inspiration I needed to drag my ass outta bed and climb SOMETHING, even if it wasn’t the overnight I was packed for. So I grabbed my pack as-is along with my empty day pack and headed for the hills.

So I’m driving with no plan whatsoever and I start weighing my options. I have what’s left of Saturday and all of Sunday to work with. So I am thinking keeping it south at least for today. I know I wanted to start working in some of the smaller peaks off of the 52WAV list anyway. There was one in particular that caught my eye as a shorter big bang for the buck type hike, perfect for my current situation – the Welch Dickey loop in Waterville Valley. So this will be my first stop and I’ll worry about a campsite later. This turned out to be a nice little hike that lived up to the hype with some fairly challenging little stretches, fantastic views over 2 peaks and a couple of hours on a sunny Saturday. Some of the best views in the Whites can be found in under 4k feet. These are the types of gems I’m trying to mix in, so I guess my oversleeping was a blessing in disguise. Plus it gave me just enough time to think through a plan B scenario.

I got this nice little hike wrapped up in plenty of time to snag a site at Waterville, do some scenic driving and chill for a bit by Mad River and break out the trail maps to plan tomorrows new plan – Moosilauke.  I check the weather again and they are calling for showers over night with a cloudy start and clearing later. So back to the campsite for some bagged dried meals (because that’s what I had packed), a campfire, and some rest before I hit the George Brook Trail in the morning.

Well true to the forecast, it did rain overnight and it is a cloudy start. It seems fall got here overnight with some chilly temps,
but I am prepared with a fleece, gloves and a hat as well as rain gear. As I travel along the trail, I can see why this is many a hiker’s favorite. There’s a little bit of everything here. I even see some of the leaves beginning to turn already. Now if we can just get that blue sky happening.

As we know from the beginning of this entry, I would not achieve that Allman Brother’s song. That is not until I was well on my way down the mountain – just one last cruel joke from Mah Nature. I guess timing is everything. Well I decided that next weekend would be my day of redemption, so I would not have to wait long…

PART 2: …And I could almost see my own footprints, fresh off the climb just six days before as I tracked them up the slopes of GB trail. Moose take 2 – worth every step retaken.

Everything I missed last week in the fog, wet and wind was laid out before me this week with gorgeous views blue skies and nothing more than a gentle breeze. It’s like a tale of two mooses (or is it meeces) …in any case redemption a success! If there was a drawback, it was that everyone else thought so too! Yes, there was a massive crowd to greet me at the summit – well, what did you expect on one of the most popular peaks on a bluebird day like today? I could see them from the meadow-like area just below the summit and paused here to get my last bit of solitude and take it my surroundings before joining the gathering.

I was able to entice Mom to take the trip north with me this weekend, as she was in dire need of an escape from her routine for a few days. She has been adjusting to life after retirement and really needs to start this new chapter of her life focusing on things that give her joy and peace. Sounds like a perfect job for the mountains to me. She may not have the physical ability to join me on my hikes, but she can still enjoy the mountains from baseline perspective and take them with her. There are so many ways to appreciate nature. We drove up together and shared some meaningful thoughts on the way. We had no reserved campsite but I knew we would have no problem getting one with summer vacationtime coming to a close. We ended up setting camp at Russell Pond in Lincoln.  Mom got my tent and I set up my hammock between two perfectly spaced trees. Then we made our way westward to the trailhead where I was left to begin the day’s repeat adventure, and Mom left with my car to explore some scenic spots along the Kanc.
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After enjoying the 360 degree views at the summit of Moosilauke, I took Carriage Path to the less visited South Peak. Here I lingered for a while and got my fix of solitude and 180 degrees of sheer beauty, followed by a descent down Snapper Trail to the Ravine Lodge and a short roadwalk to where Mom was parked. Then it was back to camp for a good meal and campfire before a rocked myself to sleep hanging from the trees.

PART 3: We woke in the morning to a chill in the air but nothing a hot coffee and big breakfast couldn’t cure. In addition, we needed to break down camp before the day’s events, so that’s always good to get the blood pumping. I had thought of doing the Kinsmans today, but that’s really a full day hike and would get us home late after the long drive. Instead we are doing a bit of driving up front to get to Crawford Notch where I’ll take the shorter hike up Eisenhower. Mom will get to explore this beautiful area from the lower elevations.

I began the hike at the same time a couple and their very friendly dog were starting. I let them start ahead of me so I could go through my normal pre-hike warmup routine. They said they weren’t very fast and I’d probably catch up to them at some point. A few times I thought it would be nice to have a dog of my own to hike with, but then again it’s nice to only be responsible to yourself too. Maybe someday…

I was originally saving Ike for a relatively easy hike with big payoff that I could take along on, but I might as well do it today and I can always repeat with a buddy (if any of my buddies ever grow a pair). Not too long after heading up the gentle slope of Edmands Path, I catch up with the couple and their dog. I didn’t catch their names, as I usually don’t, but nevertheless we get to chatting and swapping hiking tales, family stories and whatever else comes to mind. As I hear myself gabbing away I realize – wow, I’ve been on quite a few of these things! Am I becoming a seasoned hiker? Naaah it can’t be there is still so much to learn! Although I must admit, I have come a long way and have learned quite a bit on these excursions, from talking to others like I am today, from books, guides, maps, online material, social media, and most of all from experiencing the magic of the mountains. These things really do transform you into someone else – no, scratch that – they allow your true self to surface like no other place, person or thing can… well for me anyway.

After a series of leap frog cycles with this couple and canine, I end up on my own for a while (the terrain now steeper and rockier) and get my fix of quality alone time with the mountain. Trees start opening up to views of Washington, and the other Presidentials on another perfect late summer day. Entering the Alpine zone now, I come across a few groups doing a Presi- traverse and I get some tidbits on their experiences. I want to do my own traverse someday soon along with a Pemi-loop amongst other things. Who knows? Maybe one day I’ll walk the entire AT. Hiking is so much a part of me now – I just wanna see it all! It’s no longer something I do. It’s who I am!

As I reach the rocky summit I make several circles around the giant cairn to all sides of the amazing crystal clear views, and I recognize quite a few right away: of course Washington and Monroe from my halfway point, and Peirce – Jackson from the weekend before that, and so many more. I remember when there were not many I could Identify – not the case anymore.

Shortly after I arrive, the couple I had been hiking with off and on are now summiting, as I sit with my PBJ studying my map to identify some more peaks. Pongo the dog (funny I got the dog’s name but not the people) is running around to the various groups with friendly face-kisses. Another girl then summits and is asking around for directions to Crawford Path, apparently on her way to Peirce. My new friends direct her over to me – of all people! “That guy over there probably knows”. WHAT? Have I become the “expert” now? I remember when it was me asking and now I am directing! When did this happen?? Anyway I was happy to show her on the map and point her in the right direction.

After taking an extended summit break and texting my mom to let her know roughly the time I would be back at the trailhead, I make my way back down Edmonds Path where I once again catch up with my new friends (I’ve got to start remembering to exchange names with people!) We chat some more as we descend, but after a while the trail opens up a bit and they offer to let me pass or stay and chat. As they were moving a bit slower than I wanted to, I take them up on the offer and spring ahead.

Although, I felt a little bit bad about that afterward, since we seemed to form a bond and I selfishly gave into my own comfort and pace, I kinda felt a little bit like I was ditching them, but I quickly realized that this was silly and got back to good thoughts. Well they ended up catching up with me again toward the flatter part toward the bottom, and actually passed me as I was cooling off by the stream.

When I finally reached the trail head, Mom was waiting, book in hand, and a look of peace upon her face, and I could tell she had a great day in the mountains as well. We sat on a log and exchanged pictures and stories about our day. I am just now realizing that neither one of us took pictures of each other or snapped a selfie together. I guess we were just so caught up with nature that we forgot. Or perhaps we were enjoying the moment and didn’t need the camera to capture it. I am glad we spent this time together on this trip, and hope to share more of these moments…

THIS JUST IN 6/9/16: – Since the writing of this, Mom and I took another trip to the mountains, this time in winter (described in a future entry). These trips have since inspired her to get back into oil painting- something she loved immensely in earlier years. Mountains are such great seeds of inspiration!! I just got back from her house and she showed me her first finished product of her rekindled love of painting, and I just had to share it here, as well as a pic of us together. I am proud of you Mom. Love You!!