Winter(plus) 2017 -Life Beyond Marshall

A LOOK BACK AT THE SEASONS HIKES…

(click here to read Marshall Post – this is for the rest)

Final Winter Blessings

Whatever dark spirits were exorcised on that long Black Friday in January, were gone for good giving me and my hiking buddy, in many ways, the best Winter season yet! Well Winter-plus really. I’ll go back as far as November and into the early Spring and just call it “snowy-time-17”. We laid tracks in every northeast state during this amazing season. After a frigid closeout hike in week one of spring, we sat and ate just about everything on the menu at a local pub while we reflected on the 2017 offerings over a hops-lased brew. Between bites, my sister asked me what my favorite hike was. I sat and pondered for a while as I chewed on a wing and responded with “all of the above”. After all, it’s just impossible to single out one journey. There was so much variety and each day’s route had its own special moments. Heck even in the shadows of Marshall, we could award it top ranking, in its own hellish way!

Here’s how it all unfolded, at a glance…

Early November brought Therese and I to Vermont accompanied our canine friend Simba on a two-day trip that included Camel’s Hump and the highest point in the state Mount Mansfield with the first frosty icy signs of the season. Then came a very warm Berkshire’s hike where the 3 of us were joined by my other sis Maryjeanne.  Thanksgiving weekend dumped some snow in the ADK land, giving me a few days of wintery solo treks up Tabletop one day, and Street/Nye the next, in my continuing effort to catch up to Therese in our 46-ers quest to become “aspiring no more”- All this before the solstice arrived!

After our double dose of “Marsh-Hell” in January, and my therapeutic little stroll up Tecumseh, the beginning of February actually brought some of the seasons only measurable snowfall back home. I took advantage of the local offerings and then T & I met up in Lincoln NH mid-month for a few days in the Whites, where they got the jackpot. First up was a longer loop off the Kanc in the Hancocks with some rigorous climbing and plenty of timberline views. Then a drive further north offered a gentler out-and-back through Starr-King and the wooded Waumbek and a scene right out of Chronicles of Narnia.

March brought me back out west for another few days in NY. Simba greeted me with excitement for he knew what a visit from uncle Mike meant. We’re going hiking!! The 3 of us headed out to the Catskills for a great Sunday drive and a nice easy grade up to Slide Mountain. Then the next day I seemed to have all of the Adirondacks to myself with the exception of one other human (the only soul I saw all day), as I did a 10-hour loop around Nippletop and Dial. I actually passed my sister on the list for the first time on this day, but she outdid me the following week with a large meet-up group on Street and Nye. Meanwhile I was back in the southern Whites picking up a few more W48’s on the last full day of winter with Whiteface and Passaconaway. As the spring equinox arrived, my sister and I closed out the season with an introduction to Maine hiking. Old-Speck should have been named Cold-Speck on this day. The ruthless wind-chills made this the coldest hike of the season for both of us. It turned out to be a lot harder than we were expecting, but we persisted and were rewarded with spectacular views on the summit tower in single digit temps and hearty wind gusts.

Each Winter somehow seems to get better than the last and I wonder how 2018 will try to top this. But now I will switch gears and set sights on some long summer backpack trips, truly thankful for another Winter blessing. These images and highlights will stick with me in the years to come wherever my feet carry me in future journeys. Thank You Winter 2017!

THANK YOU WINTER 2017

Vermont Highlights (11/12-Camel’s Hump, 11/13-Mt. Mansfield)

THE HUMP: The trails were coated with ice in many spots. Spikes are an easy solutions for humans, but Simba was slipping and sliding. After a while he would try to find off-trail spots to avoid the ice. In other spots, we gave him a boost to help him up the skating rink. He was a trooper and never gave up. He was a big hit with everyone we encountered on the trail. Overall – just a great day!

VERMONT VICTORY!

 

VIEWS FROM THE HUMP…

The lesson (or rather REFRESHER) I learned here was that winter summit visits usually must be brief if want to keep your fingers. An extended lunch break is better suited in tree cover. Always something to learn.


MANSFIELD: Day two, we woke up in our pet-friendly hotel ready to give it a go. Simba was visibly sore from the previous day on the Hump. But we decided to try him out and see how he does. Well before too long it was clear that he was not doing well. The spirit was there but his legs were struggling to keep up. He would stop and look up at Therese as if to say. “I can do it… really I can!” But it was obvious that he really couldn’t. So eventually Therese pulled the plug and the two of them retreated down the mountain, while I continued. Turns out that was a smart move, because there were spots near the top that were scrambles that i’m not so sure he would have made it up even with fresh legs.

     

↑↑↑ more icy trails ↑↑↑


Looks like a socked in summit today

    the amazing summit view

Well i made it. Now where’s that view?

There it is, on the descent!

Coming down off The Chin…

Heading toward Adams Apple…

A potentially sketchy spot for Simba

A look back from Adams Apple to Chin (summit) and Nose in background …

Heading down to Lake of Clouds below…↓↓↓

It was a beautiful day! Wish I coulda shared it with my companions. But we made the right call. By the time they made it to the trail head Simba couldn’t move and basically had to be carried to the car. Poor guy. He did eventually recover to hike another day. We’ll all come back and maybe traverse the whole ridge someday. But for now, that’s another check mark for me. Just 2 more left in Vermont.


A Warm-up in the Berks (Bashbish Falls and Alander Mountain 11/19)

The following weekend was anything but winter. I took a drive with Maryjeanne to western Mass and met Therese and Simba for a summer-like day at this picturesque spot. Lots of laughter and NO signs of ice today!           

Great day with the sibs. Hope that I get to hike a lot more with MJ. Warmth was nice, but I’m ready for the white stuff!!


There’s SNOW in dem dar hills!! 

(Tabletop-22, Nye-23/Street-24: 11/25 & 26)

DAY ONE(Tabletop): Thanksgiving feast gave me plenty of fuel to head out west to the Adirondaks where they had picked up some fresh snow. Right after dinner at Mom’s, I hit the road for a pit stop at Therese’s to hang out with her family and watch some Christmas movies over dessert.  By first daylight I was already on the road to the High Peaks where I would tackle a Tabletop that served me no feast, except to feast upon a wintery spread of food for the soul. There wasn’t much snowpack yet but the base was laid for what would be a monster season in the Daks. Flurries were off and on throughout the day, mixed in with a few periods of freezing drizzle. There aren’t many on the trail today, as most are likely still in a turkey coma. I’ll take the solitude in the fresh crisp winter air that’s rolling in from Canada, and fill my lungs with it all the way to the top of the table.

   

   

                     

“I CAME ALL THIS WAY FOR  A WHITE-OUT??? ↑↑↑

     

↑↑↑”I LOVE IT!!!!” ↑↑↑

WRAPPING UP ANOTHER DAK IN THE DARK…↓↓↓↓

     


 DAY TWO (Nye/Street): Spent the night at Keene Valley Hostel. There was only one other couple, plus some loveable kittens. Nice place to stay, although a few points off because one of the two propane heaters were not working. We heated the place by leaving the electric stove and oven on for a while. It wasn’t that cold out anyway and we stayed toasty (actually a bit too warm for my taste).

Anyway after a good night’s sleep, I headed back out to ADK Loj parking lot, to snag a few more High Peaks. This time it was Street and Nye, two “trail-less” peaks who’s junction lies at the end of a small brook that you follow due west, upstream for most of the trip after crossing the larger Indian Pass Brook. The heard path is accessed from the trail that leads to Mount Jo from Heart Lake.

    

The trail was a wet, muddy, slushy mess for majority of the trip, but for the most part easy to find my way, following the sloppy cluster of footprints. I encountered a few more groups today, and yesterdays flurries were replaced with periods of drizzle.

            

It got somewhat confusing at the IPB crossing where the tracks branched off into two directions for two different spots to cross.

     

     



Up higher was more fluffy white stuff with dryer conditions. From the junction, Nye was a quick jaunt to the briefly visited summit, where a group of 3 had stopped for lunch. Street was a longer ascent, and got me occasionally concerned for time, since this was an unmarked trail where I had already got confused once. But I had my GPS leaving me a trail of bread crumbs, and as long as I got back across the brook before dark I was in good shape.
      

Just as I was thinking “where’s that sign?” it appeared before me. After the obligatory summit selfie, I tagged it and bagged it, and then raced down the mountain to make up some time. With the snow balling up between my microspikes, I stopped at only a few spots where a limited view presented itself.

In the end, I made it back in the dark again, soaked from head to toe, but otherwise without issue and two peaks closer to my goal and passed the halfway mark. Then it was back to the Hostel where this time I had the place to myself, aside from one cuddly kitty.  I had originally thought of a possible 3rd hike, but all my clothes were still damp, and i was spent. So after a huge breakfast I hit the road for a 5 hour drive home. Until official solstice arrival, see you soon ADK!


And then came MARSHALL… (1/1, 1/13) (Tecumseh 1/28)

The first day of the new year, and the first official winter hike of the season, brought us to our first attempt at this peak. Long story short we succeeded on our 2nd attempt 12 days later. (read more about this ordeal here)…

Then a quick reconnect on Tecumseh (also described in Marshall post) left me wanting more of the Whites…


A New Month Brings New Life (Hancocks 2/18, Waumbek 2/19)

DAY ONE- HANCOCKS: I always said that I didn’t think the Winter 48 list was for me. But I am starting to come around to the idea. Since finishing my original NH48 milestone in September, and plunging into the Daks for my next one, I’ve been looking for a reason to return. Really, the mountains should be reason enough on their own, but its nice to have a goal to keep you going too. Therese has recently decided to complete her overall 48 after finding her checklist from college and realizing she is over halfway there. So I will get to accompany her whenever she wants company, and at the same time I can slowly chip away at my W48. So after comparing lists we decided on the Hancocks for this weekend. Therese hadn’t done them yet, and my first round was a late fall hike on this 2-peak loop. There was a fresh snowfall added to a rather deep base of packed powder. Win-Win-Win!! It turned out to be the perfect choice despite some rather challenging trudging near the summit.

  

  

Perfect NH trail blazing, as if someone went through with a snowblower!

Tougher going after the loop junction following a single set of tracks.

    

I just love the north woods after a fresh snowfall

    

    

As the position of (should be eye level) trail markers show, NH got the jackpot this year! Higher and steeper up our ascent of South Peak we really had to bear down and dig in. Definitely one step backward for every two forward.

Finally sign of an approaching summit!

  

A few lunch guests at our little lookout on Hancock South.

 

The trek between the two peaks consisted of navigating our way through snow-covered branches and re-establishing the trail in a few spots where previous trampers had briefly lost their way, all the while getting dumped on from the white coatings shaking loose from the trees as we brushed by them.  No precip falling from the sky but in hindsight, we probably should have had our pack covers on.

   

No the signs aren’t mounted at ground level. There’s just that much snow! There’s actually another one buried beneath.


And then the trees open up to a clearing and the North summit is reached. Fabulous views in all directions. This is much different than my previous visit. The deep snow lifts us higher up and offers more visibility over the treetops, whereas last time a had to make my way to another lookout ledge, which is of course now buried.

     Summit pose before the steep butt-slide down from North peak.

(I suck at this!)


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And as the trail flattens out once more and we make our way back to the hairpin turn on the Kanc we feel the blessings bestowed upon us by the creator of this immense beauty. A privilege to be cherished.

Even as we load our snow covered gear into the back of my rickety old Rav4, and the hunger growling from our empty bellies drown out the breeze whistling through the trees, the sun sinking to the raised horizon of the mountains beyond gives a promise of more beauty to come in the day that follows.


DAY TWO- STARR KING/WAUMBEK: There will be time to acknowledge the soreness later. For now, we know that these fair weather opportunities can be hard to come by in the mountains, and are to be taken advantage of, at every chance that presents itself. So we fuel up with a quick breakfast and a cup of inspiration, and hit the road northbound to Coös County and the Pliny Range for a more gentle incline up Waumbek. The skies aren’t quite as blue as yesterday, but this is the perfect undertaking for such days as this.   

  

This could not be more different than yesterday. A gentle slope meandering through the forest. When I last visited Waumbek, It was a foggy drizzly summer day giving the woods an eerie presence. Winter has transformed this place into a different world, a fantasy land of sorts.

  

The wooded summit of Waumbek offers no open views, but the smaller peak enroute to our destination, Star King provides a nice one of the Northern Presis and more to our south.

      

After a summit pose we continue our stroll through the woods

And in no time at all, we arrive. Some hot cocoa and some lunch over some chit-chat with a couple that arrived shortly after us, and we start to retrace our steps. Another NH4k in the books for therese and another W48 peak for me.

Some repeat views in reverse on the way out.

Crusing down at a good pace on the fluffy white. swish swish swish…like walking on clouds.

And then before we know it we are finished and walking the road back to our car.

Treated to a fire in the sky to warm my heart on my commute, as I ponder the weekends blessings…


Back in the NY groove

(Slide Mtn: 3/5, Nippletop-26, Dial-27 :3/6)

Turning the page into a Sunday in March, and I’m heading out west again to meet up with Therese and Simba for day one in the Catskills, then heading up North to the high peaks for a long solo Monday. The weather and schedule dictated the hiking days once again, and I will not miss Monday in the office one bit!

Slide Mountain is one of the two Catskills that are official peaks of the Northeast 111 (which actually consists of 115 peaks). These lists take on a life of their own once you decide to get a few of em under your belt. Once you’ve done NH48 it seems “easy” enough to get 14 more in Maine and 5 more in VT to complete the NE67, and then once you’ve added the ADK 46 you need only grab 2 more in NY to get you to 115. So why not? Besides, this is a nice easy hike for Simba. The trickiest part is the water crossing at the very beginning with unstable snow bridges, but we just had to pick the right spot to cross and keep our boots dry. The rest of it was a cakewalk.

  Simba was avoiding the paparazzi that day for some reason, but we managed to pin him down for a few poses.

The views over the trees were nice at the summit.

All in all, a nice warm-up hike on a rather warm late winter day.

And then came HOOKY DAY!

Now I was ready for a long day in the Daks! Turns out I would get them ALL TO MYSELF (or so it seemed). I saw but only one other person all day! Other than that, nothing but God’s country!

But first a roadwalk through Ausable Club AMR which is now deserted. This is a private country club you must pass through on foot to get to the trails in this section of ADK. A nice warm-up to the day.

The gate marks the unpaved portion of road, and today this is a sheet of ice, so on with the Microspikes. Carrying the snowshoes on my back for now.

The first turnoff I encounter is where I will finish off the day, so I continue to walk the road along the mostly frozen Ausable River’s East Branch, to my start point at Gill Brook Trail.

An hour into my day I finally get to my turnoff and hit the trail!

Last time I saw this stretch of trail was a much different story. We were finishing up a long beautiful, although somewhat muddy, day on Colvin and Blake during peak foliage, and the stream’s cascading falls offered a soothing ambiance to our aching tired bodies and minds. Now winter has frozen everything and its as if time has stood still, waiting for me to witness this moment at every turn. I of course cannot resist capturing every amazing scene like a kid in a candy store!

<– Hmmm, Is there ever a choice really??

LEFT of course!

     

AND I AM IN MY HAPPY PLACE ONCE AGAIN…

     Another junction marks the next stage of the journey. Another left here.

Filtered sunlight above as I make my way to the Ponds in the col off Elks Pass.  Plenty of deep post holes to avoid from last week’s warm-up, but it has since firmed up with a blast of cold from the North. Spikes are still all I need so far.   

Sun peaking out now as I approach the ponds. I pause here to soak in some rays and grab a quick snack.

    Hearing some distant footsteps getting closer, I get back on my way, to stay ahead of them. Call me selfish but these are MY mountains today!  Slowly inching up the steep curves of Nippletop ,the views get better and better and the feeling of my intimate encounter with the mountains more profound the closer I get. (bow-chicka-wow-wow)

Up further and further until…Almost there!

Then just like that, I arrive to this amazing point. The tip of the nip!

And I grab all the wondrous beauty it has to offer!

(Click here for video of Nippletop Summit)

Then the footsteps approach once again, and my only human encounter of the day arrives on the scene. We exchange some summit conversation and photographer duties and he exits, to get back to the junction where he is uncertain weather to backtrack his steps or continue onto Dial, like me. I enjoy the views for a bit more then head out myself. Still many more miles to cover!! I pass him once again on my way to peak #2 and put some distance between us. Between the two peaks I get another time-stand-still moment, where the silence is so profound that I have to stop and take it in. I try to capture this moment once again, but as I pan around the creaking of my pack breaks the stillness. Sometimes you just need to put the camera down and take it in.

Before too long, I arrive at the lookout just before the wooded true summit of Dial. This gives me fantastic views of the Great Range, and a perfect spot to grab some lunch and enjoy the show.

…And Life is good!

My dessert makes me think “Got Milk?” and if only I were still on Nippletop. Gabe Falker says you can milk anything with nipples! Well, I guess hot (or luke warm) Cocoa will have to do.

After a good long break, I tear myself away from the main attraction to put on some more miles. Next stop Bear Den and then over a portion of Noonmark mountain.

(Click here for video of Dial outlook)

Bear Den was nothing spectacular but the mood gets a bit eery as I make my way through the scorched forest with the scronnie trees of the 2nd growth leading up to the shoulder of Noonmark, which suffered the effects of a big fire years ago leaving bare rock ledges. A recipe for more great views!  

 

Kinda Spooky here.

 

But Plenty of views through the dwarfed growth.

 

Going on 8 hours now and feeling good. Its all downhill from here.  

Spikes served me well the whole way. Looks like the snowshoes had a free ride today!

 After some crazy downhill trotting, made it back to the road before dark.  Then another hour back to the car and I’m ready for the 4.5 hour drive home after some clean clothes and a stop for a bacon burger. BEST MONDAY EVER!! Much better than sitting in my cubicle battling the office chaos! Thank You so much once again, you beautiful wonderful mountains! Can’t wait to return!


…And Winter 2017 comes to a close (Whiteface/Passaconaway 3/19)

The final day of winter brought me back to the New Hampshire. It was great to celebrate the closing of another amazing winter in the place where my winter hiking began – my Whites. A 10.5 mile loop over Whitefaace and Passaconaway gives me a fresh perspective on this area that was bursting with spring life my last time around. I thought about how the snow-fall season has added so much to my love of hiking and the mountains, and how each year gets better than the last, and teaches me new lessons and brings new gifts. I think back at this season in particular and the wide variety it brought, from a never-ending death march testing my limits to short carefree easy days, from peaceful solitude to laughter and sharing, from the Berkshires in Mass, to the Catskills and Adirondack in NY, to the Whites in NH, to the Greens in VT, and now in a few days plans to meet up in Maine with the other set of footsteps I have counted on so much lately, my sister and hiking buddy. She is taking another trek today with a group of friends in the Daks to tag Street and Nye. I am thinking of her from time to time, but also enjoying this time with no thoughts at all, just me and the mountains.

…And the sun sets on the last full day of the best winter yet!  It’ll be hard to top this one for sure, but I will certainly try like hell in 2018!

BUT WAIT! Winter might be over but we’ve got one more trick up our sleeve to say farewell to an unforgettable season.  With Therese finishing up a business trip in Maine, we met up on a very cold start to Spring’17 to bag our very first Main-er (if that’s even what they call em) – Old Speck. It was the coldest trek of the Winter, even though we were into Spring. But a perfect last hurrah with our snow gear before we went into our Spring hiatus waiting to transition into what would be an amazing summer in the Adirondacks to finish our 46-er quest! But we’ll be back next year to play in the snow again!

31ST ENTRY: ALWAYS ASPIRING! (A 46-R FINISH) – 10/1/17

Adirondack High Peaks

(Mt. Colden #46)

With the Christmas tree lit in front of me, and a sleeping cat warming my feet, I think to myself that there is one gift so great, it could never fit under this tree (or even under the Rockefeller Plaza one), and it has been given to me, my sister, and thousands of others who walk these trails! I sit here at my laptop about to sum up this 46er journey with a recollection of our finishing steps on our final peak. I take a look back at past journal entries, my vast collection of photos, each of our letters to the Adirondack Mountain Club, and I search my soul for the right words to describe how thankful I am for this gift. Is there a word that I have been saving for this moment to carry the magnitude of my feelings of how lucky I am to be here…now… to say how precious these experiences, both tender and grand, have been and what they have meant to me?

The answer of course is No there are no words, only actions. The best thing I can do is NOT to think of this as a journey’s end but a continuation and a landmark on a much larger one- one that has no end.

So, I will put one foot in front of the other and repeat. I will look around at all around me. I will feed on the energy of the majestic landscape, the rushing water, the changing skies. I will breath deep and exhale. I will find time to give back to the trails that have given me back my very life. I will never take any of it for granted.

And so, even though there are no words to adequately express the magnitude of this moment and how I feel about this place, these faces, and most of all how blessed I am to share this with my sister by my side , I will spit out as many as I can muster up, once again, to try and capture the mood of the day. We begin once again on a crisp October morning at ADK Loj on Heart Lake…

We arrived in the High Peaks the afternoon before and turned onto the Loj Rd greeted by views across the field to the MacIntyres, to the slides of our finishing peak,  and even a snow-capped Algonquin in the distance.

Once checked in, I headed out to the lake for a closer look to set the mood for the following day. After exchanging stories and backgrounds with the other guests over a Loj-style dinner buffet, we headed back to our room for some shut-eye while visions of mountaintops danced in our heads.

After Breakfast the next day, we checked out of the Loj and into the trail head, where we each grabbed a Larger rock to throw in our packs, accompanying the walnut sized one we had saved from our previous Colden attempt 2 years ago. These rocks WILL find their final resting place upon the summit long before this morning’s sun sets on the shores of Lake Colden or dips behind the Macs. No turning back – not today! We made sure we picked the best possible day, so that no Ice-monsters will stand in our way. He bit us hard 2 years ago, so today we seek redemption and a fitting finish to an EPIC journey.

Once again, we are starting with the all too familiar trek to Marcy Dam, followed by a climb up to Lake Arnold, and then up to the false summit (the point we bailed last time) and then up to the true summit and down the South-western slopes to Lake Colden and through Avalanche Pass for our return trip. In order to save more time for the more enjoyable parts of the loop, we have decided to Jog the distance to Marcy Dam. These days I am more up for a jog, since I have recently done my first obstacle 5k race and low and behold, now actually like running! – Whoduthunk??

We whiz past the morning crowds and pause at our landmark for a quick selfie. Now we will slow the pace and ENJOY every moment of this “final” walk. We have certainly earned it!

     Making the split-off toward Lake Arnold, we are now moving at more of a stroll through the autumn woods. This year’s foliage is less brilliant due to the warmer than normal September. In some areas the leaves have not yet forfeited their green to reveal the warm side of the color wheel, while in other areas fall has already fallen. The later seems to be the case in the trail we now walk but we will take the muted color over the icy slip n slide we attempted to navigate 2 years prior.

     

After all, last year’s intense foliage display more than made up for it! As I walk along and see splashes of color, my mind drifts to a day this time twelve months earlier, when I experienced without question, the most vivid colored walk in the woods in any memory I have, on a solo hike up over The Brothers to Big Slide, followed up a day later with Therese on Indian Head, Colvin and Blake.

(click here for full gallery).

     

My mind would drift again and again throughout the day, as I reflect back to all of the long wonderful days gone by that have led us to this milestone day.

                      

 

But there is plenty around us to keep us in the moment too. Rays of sunshine filtering through the forest canopy. The bright red berry I’ve seen over & over and have never been able to resist a photo opp.

The transformation in my surroundings I have witnessed time after time as I gain elevation, sometimes subtle, but often as dramatic as summer to winter within a single day. Indeed, even today, the grass is layered with frost and interspersed with patches of the white stuff, revealing a taste of seasons to come, as we arrive at Lake Arnold just above 3500 ft.

With an army of bare sticks standing along the slopes before us, in contrast against the deep blue sky, we pull up a boulder on the shoreline to pause for a snack.  A passerby arrives on the scene, just in time to snap a photo of me and my sister, then we continue on.

  

On our way to our next vista we recognize the formation we dubbed ICE MONSTER the last time we passed this way, although now he is much more tamed. No longer standing guard as a menacing presence, he lets us pass with ease.

Then we arrive at the false summit. The zero-visibility spot where we had previously performed an about-face, had so much more to show us this time around! We lingered here for a while to take it all in. Such a beautiful spot with grand views of the MacIntyres and more! Yes we will linger to our hearts content today. This day belongs to us!

 

It was funny to see the trail markers and cairns pointing the way, as none of this was visible on the first attempt (Click here to read about that attempt). Now it was finally time to venture into unexplored territory.

We dipped back into the trees and walked for a while until we arrived at a ladder that led us up a good stretch of the next would-be scramble – HOW LUXURIOUS! Sometimes when I see these I wonder “why”? The terrain beneath these ladders is often moderately difficult at best, while some of our unassisted scrambles have been far more challenging. Not that I would have wanted ladders everywhere, or necessarily would not have welcomed this one. Just something that made me go “hmmm” I suppose.


After some more red berries, patches of snow and a neat cave, we arrived at some pretty awesome views and of course the pile of rocks where we made our offerings. including the walnut sized rock from our last non-visit.

And then, after another short jaunt, just like that, almost hard to believe, we became (unofficially yet happily) two more members in this elite club of hikers – WE WERE NOW 46-ers!!!

  We looked around at the peaks surrounding us and let the idea sink in that we have actually been to all of these amazing places, and got to each summit under our own power. Each one of these bumps that scattered the horizon in every direction had their own story filled with memories that would last a lifetime.

That last sentiment is indeed the reason I spend so many hours typing away, trying to choose the best words to describe this indescribable experience. I want these memories to be documented so that I can go back to any moment at any time and relive the journey. Of course, images and words don’t tell the whole story. To fully relive the moment, I would have to physically go back, which I am always perfectly happy to oblige. But even then, that would be a new moment with its own story. Each one of these gems, happens only once – a precious moment in time never to be duplicated, but eternally alive in each of our hearts.

   

These are the thoughts that consumed me as we sat for our extended summit visit atop Mount Colden, conversing with fellow “Aspire-ees” over lunch, and posed for our long awaited 46-er photos, proud and honored beyond words. We took out the Colden patches we gave ourselves as celebration patches, to hold ourselves over until we received our 46er patches and documented the momentous occasion.

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So, we proceeded to pry ourselves away and begin our descent down the red-marked Lake Colden trail.

At this point we were higher on life than the 47,144’ elevation we reached today, and were downright giddy!

So, when we reached another wooden ladder Therese broke into a Chorus Line routine, and I was quick-thinking enough, and could not resist hitting the record button to capture this fun moment on video.

(click here for video of Therese’ song and dance)

We encountered a few groups ascending in our opposite direction, and of course we were so pleased with ourselves we had to share with the world what we had accomplished today! True to form of the happy-hiker community, everyone was genuinely happy for us and offered enthusiastic congratulations, which we ate up! One gentleman (a fellow 46-er) in one of the groups, upon hearing the news, asked us if we had received our patches yet, and proceeded to dig through his pack and pulled our two of his extras and gave them to us! It was like being a kid on Christmas day …but BETTER! We were so happy and appreciative of his gesture, and when he took a picture of us posing with our new badges of honor, I think our smiles told the story.

We reached the bottom of our plunge, just in time to plunge our feet into an ice-cold Lake Colden and exchange them for new ones. Well one these new feet must have not liked the leg it was attached to, and all of the sudden I felt a tightening creeping in – “NO-NO-NO-STOP-STOP-STOP-OUCH-OUCH- AAAAUUGH!!!!” –  Charley-horse!!! Not the worst one I’ve had but I usually get them mid-sleep not mid-hike. I was able to work the cramp through and it turned out to be a minor setback. It wouldn’t be the Adirondacks without some sort of injury after all. This time it was my turn. If that was our setback, I’d call this a perfect day in the Daks!

We began to leisurely make our way through one of the most beautiful spots in the region – Avalanche Pass. As we navigated and admired the newly rebuilt “Hitchup Matildas”, wooden walkways attached to the cliff faces that rise out of the lake, we marveled at the sights before us.

   

Across the two lakes that make up the pass (Colden and Avalanche), the vertical north-western slopes of Mount Colden rise from the water revealing the famous Trap Dike – a gash in the mountains cliffs that only the most adventurous (or insane) climbers attempt to make a traveled route. People have died attempting it. Still, I will have to admit it is very tempting. I’d have to say that it’s probably on my to-do list, but I may take with me someone who has done it before, if I do it at all.

On the western shores of the lakes that hold our traveled route the sheer cliffs of avalanche mountain rise over our heads.

The scene is rugged, majestic, serene, and awe inspiring all at once. It’s no wonder so many regard this area as their favorite in all of the Adirondacks.

 

As we reach the northernmost shore we pause for one last look at this grand view and give our thanks to this amazing gift that is the Adirondacks.

Back to normal trail hiking now and coming to the close of our big lollipop loop, I turn to my sister and say, “If you want to jog back from Marcy Dam I am game!” …And that’s what we did. We are anxious to get back to comforts of hike recuperation. Although leaving our mountains tonight with our newly realized goal will be bittersweet for sure. It’s hard to believe we will not be coming back in a week to conquer our next high peak. What is next?

The following day, on my ride on i-90 to my Massachusetts home away from the mountains (my heart’s true home), the events from our previous day and of our entire Adirondack journey replay in my head, and I feel the need to express my thanks for this experience on the Aspiring 46ers Facebook page, and then in the following weeks as I struggle with the aftermath and am filling out my paperwork for registering as a 46-er, I feel the need to express and reflect once again in my letter to the organization. My sister did the same. They sum up, perhaps the best, how we feel about this place, this experience, each other, and everyone who shares this amazing magical journey. Here are each of our letters:


My 46er letter

It all started Labor Day weekend 2015. In the middle of my NH48 run, I pause for a weekend backpack trip with my sister, and a change of scenery. She is slowly chipping away at her 46er list as this is closer to her home in NY. Right away I get the feeling that this is a special place much different than the Whites I have grown accustomed to. We hike into our base camp at JBL and the next morning begin our long hike through “HA-BA-SA”, and my intro to the wonderful world of the Daks. If I had to use one word to describe my reaction once we reached Haystack summit it would have to be “Magic”. I seemed to have been transported to a land where only beauty exists as far as the eye can see. Gone are the roads and towns below and only lakes, rivers, valleys, streams, meadows, forest, and these magnificent mountains all around me remain. The sky could not be bluer, the breeze could not be fresher, the smells could not be sweeter. It is love at first sight! After an equally magical day two on Armstrong, Gothics and the Wolfjaws, it’s clear that I have officially found my new quest. I am now an “Aspiring 46er”.

So many memories filled my journey since then. Too many to list here, but some highlights (and a few low-lights) include the following: A lazy barefoot summer afternoon lounge on an unlikely deserted Giant summit after a day of open views on RPR. Bonding with a stranger on an epic struggle up the slopes of Algonquin when this solo hiker girl and I kept each other company up the final scrambles, giving each other inspiring words to keep going. A weekend of peak foliage on Big Slide solo and Colvin/Blake with my sister, witnessing colors I never knew could be so brilliant! A two-attempt long frustrating slog from upper works to tag Marshall, losing the trail, and sinking waist-deep in snow, and setting a record for use of the F-word in one hike. Having seemingly the entire high peaks region to myself on a profoundly quiet peaceful winter hooky day on Nippletop and Dial. Introducing my niece to the Daks on Sawteeth witnessing her pure joy to be showered by the wall of water in Rainbow Falls (unfortunately ending with a trip to the hospital after diabetic complications). A surprisingly enjoyable trek to Allen filled with such varied scenery including lush meadows, moss covered forests, brooks, ponds, steep slippery scrambles, and some amazing spider-webs. Connecting with my sister and with the mountains on a deeper level on some epic (and MUDDY) multi-night backpack trips to Dix range, Cliff-Redfield, and Seward range (one of which included learning some backwoods lessons the hard way after a scare, getting separated from my partner). Saying goodbye to an amazing golden retriever and a dear friend on Skylight. Connecting with a wonderful new friend, in a long fun-filled day in the Santanoni range. An icy, late fall bail-out on Colden, redeemed with a perfect, early-fall day 2 yrs later as our finishing peak!

It’s so hard to believe this journey is nearing an end, but really, it has only just begun. I have learned so much about myself, and more importantly, have been so blessed to share this experience and strengthen the bond with my sister. I have seen so many heavenly places, and trudged through hellish lands, en-route to this final achievement and have met many wonderful people along the way that seem to open their hearts and genuinely care to offer helpful advice and share their stories, welcoming a stranger into their world. The day after finishing this amazing journey I posted the following words on the Aspiring 46ers Facebook page that sums up how I feel about these beautiful places and people in the Daks:

Yesterday my sister and I summited Mt Colden and became two more of the 46ers. To me that title means so much more than the number it displays. This journey had taught me to appreciate life and the simple beauty it possesses to its fullest. At times the experience has humbled me, and others has enriched and lifted my spirits to heights I never thought possible. To those still “Aspiring”, my advice to you would be to ENJOY THE JOURNEY! Weather your pace is fast or slow, each time you set foot on that trail take a piece of that day with you and hold it forever near and dear to your heart. Each hike has a gift to give for all who are willing to receive. I believe that the mountains speak to each and every one of us if we have an open ear and open hearts. Sometimes they speak loud and clear, other times in a soft whisper so listen closely. There are few things so precious in this life and they should never be taken for granted. I am truly thankful to all those on this page who have had so much great advice, spectacular images, and amazing stories to share. I have met so many genuinely caring people on the trail, and even hiked alongside a few of you. Weather we have met (or ever will meet) face to face, I’ll always consider you one of the family. One big happy hiker family! Thank you and see you on the trail!

Always Aspiring,

Mick Coste


Therese’s 46er Letter

The summer of 2012 marked the summer I read 3 books in a row about rugged earthy women “survivalists” (including the popular “Wild”).  I was remembering a promise I made to myself a long time ago to hike the Appalachian Trail.  Finding myself mother of 3 and tuitions to pay I decide to take that remembrance and transform it to a new goal more aligned to my current lifestyle.  It was time for me to learn about “my own” Adirondack Mountains. 

My first peak was Marcy and I recall listening to Cat Stevens on the August 2012 morning as I headed out from my summer cabin on Peck Lake in the southern Adirondacks and arrived at the ADK Loj parking lot just before 9AM.  The smell of the woods felt like an old dear friend as I tromped along the van Hoevenberg trail, through Marcy Dam and then straight on to Mt. Marcy and back. It was a good, long day with a peaceful visit to Indian Falls on the return where I was blessed with purple irises.  A few more peaks that fall and I had begun to hike through my “unrest” as I awakened something inside that had gone dormant too long.  

The next couple of years were filled with other milestones, particularly my first 2 (and only) Marathons (NYC and Boston).  In 2015, hanging up my marathon shoes, I began again in earnest on Labor Day Weekend with my brother Michael (Mick) Coste.  We bagged 7 peaks that weekend and made memories that still stay with me.  That trip was perhaps one of my favorites of all times.  HaBaSa on day 1.  Gothics, Armstrong and both Wolfjaws on day 2.  It felt so good to be in the rhythm of nature -Walking, talking, joking… and the silence between.  Some of the notable memories can be found in my journal of that time: 

The stars at night from the JBL, green things and how happy they make me, cables and scrambles up esp. Saddleback and Gothics, summer breezes on summits, jumping in the stream at the end of an arduous day, the loud snoring in the 10-bunker… and resignation when I slept in the kitchen, a baby fawn and its mother, hiking out to an empty parking lot and no shuttle and running to Marcy Field to get the car, a clean cotton shirt at the end of the hike.

Many hikes that followed had lists like these.  The fall of 2015 had some classic great weather And the fall of 2016 was even more spectacular!  Long lingering discussions about past, present, future with a friend (Shailaja); More memories with my brother Mike; Every hike had a story, and I tried to catalog most of them if only briefly.  Colden took 2 tries (as the first was icy and we were not as prepared as we thought!.  Stabilicers are NOT microspikes!).  We decided on that day (10/22/15) that we would return and make this mountain our finish.  And what a finish!!  Arguably in my top 3 hikes  (though it is a tough call)

The majority of the peaks were spent with my brother Mike.  We shared so much together over the last few years.  As I think about this past summer leading up to our finish I realize I have a new/old best friend.  Together we said goodbye to Simba (my dog and our hiking companion ), we shared family concerns, we laughed and created inside jokes, we befriended an energetic and amazing Anna Pacheco who will also hopefully finish this year, we paused, we rushed, we relaxed, we schemed… we were kids (again).

My solo journeys – inner and outer – were also cherished.  I journaled, reflected, contemplated… and perhaps grew.  Or at least was calmed for a while… Some excerpts seem to reflect this:                

The contemplation today was all about what a strange journey this is… Sometimes it seems that the hike is about trying to re-find my youth – the feeling of comfort and safety that still comes to me when I recollect the moment of first being enthralled by a bumble bee in a flower, or the clouds, or a fireplace when all of the flames have died away and all that is left is the burning coals with mystery and stories for the making.  Other times I am all too aware of the despair of our times.  Of the poverty that needs tending. Of the incessant rush and squeeze to achieve and get in all that we can so that a life is well lived in spite of the crushing forces of a society gone wrong somewhere.  I am aware of my own motherhood – its gifts and its pressures. And I walk… I walk with these thoughts… and I walk with my aching feet… and I notice the purple mushroom and the blue berry and the ferns and the smells… and I breathe.  And I think… what a strange journey this is.  And Oh Lord Protect My Child!

Other excerpts apologize to Mother Earth for what we have done to her.  And the heartfelt, cathartic rush of tears at my smallness and inability to make right what we have all made wrong… 

And I pray. I pray that Her resilience and ability to heal is stronger than I know. I ask Her to forgive us…The smog, the pavement, the trampling on Her, our host…And I feel the natives in my blood and my bones.  Perhaps it is they I am channeling at this moment –

Through it all – the joy and the pain, the bluebird days, the mud; the autumn air and the sweetness of leaves, which I am sure is somehow mingled with the smell of baking apple pie; the first views at Indian Head or Avalanche Pass; the summits so comforting and grand all at once; the colors of every season; the starkness and pure silence of winter; the comradery with new friends, old friends, or just a passerby… all of it wraps up in a beautiful gift which is “my” Adirondacks.  Mine and some 10,000 others!

Thank You,

Therese Coste

In the aftermath of realizing a goal that had been pretty much our purpose over the past 2 years, We both suffered from the “What Now” affect. It’s like being a kid at Christmas and feeling that let down after all the presents have been opened. We really needed a hike for the sake of hiking. It was peak foliage and once more, we called on Vermont to satisfy the craving and get us out of our funk. We took a hooky day, walked the ridge of Mansfield from the Forehead to the Adams-Apple and we laughed and laughed. We were kids once more! “Bring on the next adventure! I’m thinking PEMI-LOOP!”

     

 

32nd ENTRY: SOOOO MANY COLORS – 10/6&7/16

Adirondack High Peaks

(Big Slide #19, Colvin #20, Blake #21)

File this under WORDS CANNOT DESCRIBE! So I’ll keep it brief and get to the pictures.

A peak foliage autumn weekend in the middle of my 46er quest (and immediately following my NH48 finish).

Day one:  I went solo over “The Brothers” to Big Slide. I didn’t think colors could ever be that brilliant. To this day, I still consider this the best foliage hike ever! I felt up close and a part of every painted leaf.

Day two: Therese joined me for a much longer hike up to Indian Head and then to Colvin and Blake. While Blake was wooded, muddy and evergreen, Colvin and especially Indian Head and Fish Hawk Cliffs more than made up for it and offered magnificent views of Upper/Lower Ausable Lakes, the Great Range. All painted with the vibrant colors seen the day before but at a wider scale on a region wide canvas.

AND NOW A HAND IT OVER TO GOD’S ART MUSEUM…


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(Autumn creek video clip)


DAY TWO – COLVIN & BLAKE (VIA INDIAN HEAD/ FISH HAWK)-