A LOOK BACK AT THE SEASONS HIKES…
(click here to read Marshall Post – this is for the rest)
Final Winter Blessings–
Whatever dark spirits were exorcised on that long Black Friday in January, were gone for good giving me and my hiking buddy, in many ways, the best Winter season yet! Well Winter-plus really. I’ll go back as far as November and into the early Spring and just call it “snowy-time-17”. We laid tracks in every northeast state during this amazing season. After a frigid closeout hike in week one of spring, we sat and ate just about everything on the menu at a local pub while we reflected on the 2017 offerings over a hops-lased brew. Between bites, my sister asked me what my favorite hike was. I sat and pondered for a while as I chewed on a wing and responded with “all of the above”. After all, it’s just impossible to single out one journey. There was so much variety and each day’s route had its own special moments. Heck even in the shadows of Marshall, we could award it top ranking, in its own hellish way!
Here’s how it all unfolded, at a glance…
Early November brought Therese and I to Vermont accompanied our canine friend Simba on a two-day trip that included Camel’s Hump and the highest point in the state Mount Mansfield with the first frosty icy signs of the season. Then came a very warm Berkshire’s hike where the 3 of us were joined by my other sis Maryjeanne. Thanksgiving weekend dumped some snow in the ADK land, giving me a few days of wintery solo treks up Tabletop one day, and Street/Nye the next, in my continuing effort to catch up to Therese in our 46-ers quest to become “aspiring no more”- All this before the solstice arrived!
After our double dose of “Marsh-Hell” in January, and my therapeutic little stroll up Tecumseh, the beginning of February actually brought some of the seasons only measurable snowfall back home. I took advantage of the local offerings and then T & I met up in Lincoln NH mid-month for a few days in the Whites, where they got the jackpot. First up was a longer loop off the Kanc in the Hancocks with some rigorous climbing and plenty of timberline views. Then a drive further north offered a gentler out-and-back through Starr-King and the wooded Waumbek and a scene right out of Chronicles of Narnia.
March brought me back out west for another few days in NY. Simba greeted me with excitement for he knew what a visit from uncle Mike meant. We’re going hiking!! The 3 of us headed out to the Catskills for a great Sunday drive and a nice easy grade up to Slide Mountain. Then the next day I seemed to have all of the Adirondacks to myself with the exception of one other human (the only soul I saw all day), as I did a 10-hour loop around Nippletop and Dial. I actually passed my sister on the list for the first time on this day, but she outdid me the following week with a large meet-up group on Street and Nye. Meanwhile I was back in the southern Whites picking up a few more W48’s on the last full day of winter with Whiteface and Passaconaway. As the spring equinox arrived, my sister and I closed out the season with an introduction to Maine hiking. Old-Speck should have been named Cold-Speck on this day. The ruthless wind-chills made this the coldest hike of the season for both of us. It turned out to be a lot harder than we were expecting, but we persisted and were rewarded with spectacular views on the summit tower in single digit temps and hearty wind gusts.
Each Winter somehow seems to get better than the last and I wonder how 2018 will try to top this. But now I will switch gears and set sights on some long summer backpack trips, truly thankful for another Winter blessing. These images and highlights will stick with me in the years to come wherever my feet carry me in future journeys. Thank You Winter 2017!
Vermont Highlights (11/12-Camel’s Hump, 11/13-Mt. Mansfield)
THE HUMP: The trails were coated with ice in many spots. Spikes are an easy solutions for humans, but Simba was slipping and sliding. After a while he would try to find off-trail spots to avoid the ice. In other spots, we gave him a boost to help him up the skating rink. He was a trooper and never gave up. He was a big hit with everyone we encountered on the trail. Overall – just a great day!
VERMONT VICTORY!
The lesson (or rather REFRESHER) I learned here was that winter summit visits usually must be brief if want to keep your fingers. An extended lunch break is better suited in tree cover. Always something to learn.
MANSFIELD: Day two, we woke up in our pet-friendly hotel ready to give it a go. Simba was visibly sore from the previous day on the Hump. But we decided to try him out and see how he does. Well before too long it was clear that he was not doing well. The spirit was there but his legs were struggling to keep up. He would stop and look up at Therese as if to say. “I can do it… really I can!” But it was obvious that he really couldn’t. So eventually Therese pulled the plug and the two of them retreated down the mountain, while I continued. Turns out that was a smart move, because there were spots near the top that were scrambles that i’m not so sure he would have made it up even with fresh legs.
↑↑↑ more icy trails ↑↑↑
Looks like a socked in summit today
Well i made it. Now where’s that view?
There it is, on the descent!
Heading toward Adams Apple…
A look back from Adams Apple to Chin (summit) and Nose in background …
Heading down to Lake of Clouds below…↓↓↓
It was a beautiful day! Wish I coulda shared it with my companions. But we made the right call. By the time they made it to the trail head Simba couldn’t move and basically had to be carried to the car. Poor guy. He did eventually recover to hike another day. We’ll all come back and maybe traverse the whole ridge someday. But for now, that’s another check mark for me. Just 2 more left in Vermont.
A Warm-up in the Berks (Bashbish Falls and Alander Mountain 11/19)
The following weekend was anything but winter. I took a drive with Maryjeanne to western Mass and met Therese and Simba for a summer-like day at this picturesque spot. Lots of laughter and NO signs of ice today!
Great day with the sibs. Hope that I get to hike a lot more with MJ. Warmth was nice, but I’m ready for the white stuff!!
There’s SNOW in dem dar hills!!
(Tabletop-22, Nye-23/Street-24: 11/25 & 26)
DAY ONE(Tabletop): Thanksgiving feast gave me plenty of fuel to head out west to the Adirondaks where they had picked up some fresh snow. Right after dinner at Mom’s, I hit the road for a pit stop at Therese’s to hang out with her family and watch some Christmas movies over dessert. By first daylight I was already on the road to the High Peaks where I would tackle a Tabletop that served me no feast, except to feast upon a wintery spread of food for the soul. There wasn’t much snowpack yet but the base was laid for what would be a monster season in the Daks. Flurries were off and on throughout the day, mixed in with a few periods of freezing drizzle. There aren’t many on the trail today, as most are likely still in a turkey coma. I’ll take the solitude in the fresh crisp winter air that’s rolling in from Canada, and fill my lungs with it all the way to the top of the table.
↓↓↓“I CAME ALL THIS WAY FOR A WHITE-OUT??? ↑↑↑
↑↑↑”I LOVE IT!!!!” ↑↑↑
WRAPPING UP ANOTHER DAK IN THE DARK…↓↓↓↓
DAY TWO (Nye/Street): Spent the night at Keene Valley Hostel. There was only one other couple, plus some loveable kittens. Nice place to stay, although a few points off because one of the two propane heaters were not working. We heated the place by leaving the electric stove and oven on for a while. It wasn’t that cold out anyway and we stayed toasty (actually a bit too warm for my taste).
Anyway after a good night’s sleep, I headed back out to ADK Loj parking lot, to snag a few more High Peaks. This time it was Street and Nye, two “trail-less” peaks who’s junction lies at the end of a small brook that you follow due west, upstream for most of the trip after crossing the larger Indian Pass Brook. The heard path is accessed from the trail that leads to Mount Jo from Heart Lake.
The trail was a wet, muddy, slushy mess for majority of the trip, but for the most part easy to find my way, following the sloppy cluster of footprints. I encountered a few more groups today, and yesterdays flurries were replaced with periods of drizzle.
It got somewhat confusing at the IPB crossing where the tracks branched off into two directions for two different spots to cross.
Up higher was more fluffy white stuff with dryer conditions. From the junction, Nye was a quick jaunt to the briefly visited summit, where a group of 3 had stopped for lunch. Street was a longer ascent, and got me occasionally concerned for time, since this was an unmarked trail where I had already got confused once. But I had my GPS leaving me a trail of bread crumbs, and as long as I got back across the brook before dark I was in good shape.
Just as I was thinking “where’s that sign?” it appeared before me. After the obligatory summit selfie, I tagged it and bagged it, and then raced down the mountain to make up some time. With the snow balling up between my microspikes, I stopped at only a few spots where a limited view presented itself.
In the end, I made it back in the dark again, soaked from head to toe, but otherwise without issue and two peaks closer to my goal and passed the halfway mark. Then it was back to the Hostel where this time I had the place to myself, aside from one cuddly kitty. I had originally thought of a possible 3rd hike, but all my clothes were still damp, and i was spent. So after a huge breakfast I hit the road for a 5 hour drive home. Until official solstice arrival, see you soon ADK!
And then came MARSHALL… (1/1, 1/13) (Tecumseh 1/28)
The first day of the new year, and the first official winter hike of the season, brought us to our first attempt at this peak. Long story short we succeeded on our 2nd attempt 12 days later. (read more about this ordeal here)…
Then a quick reconnect on Tecumseh (also described in Marshall post) left me wanting more of the Whites…
A New Month Brings New Life (Hancocks 2/18, Waumbek 2/19)
DAY ONE- HANCOCKS: I always said that I didn’t think the Winter 48 list was for me. But I am starting to come around to the idea. Since finishing my original NH48 milestone in September, and plunging into the Daks for my next one, I’ve been looking for a reason to return. Really, the mountains should be reason enough on their own, but its nice to have a goal to keep you going too. Therese has recently decided to complete her overall 48 after finding her checklist from college and realizing she is over halfway there. So I will get to accompany her whenever she wants company, and at the same time I can slowly chip away at my W48. So after comparing lists we decided on the Hancocks for this weekend. Therese hadn’t done them yet, and my first round was a late fall hike on this 2-peak loop. There was a fresh snowfall added to a rather deep base of packed powder. Win-Win-Win!! It turned out to be the perfect choice despite some rather challenging trudging near the summit.
Perfect NH trail blazing, as if someone went through with a snowblower!
Tougher going after the loop junction following a single set of tracks.
I just love the north woods after a fresh snowfall
As the position of (should be eye level) trail markers show, NH got the jackpot this year! Higher and steeper up our ascent of South Peak we really had to bear down and dig in. Definitely one step backward for every two forward.
Finally sign of an approaching summit!
A few lunch guests at our little lookout on Hancock South.
The trek between the two peaks consisted of navigating our way through snow-covered branches and re-establishing the trail in a few spots where previous trampers had briefly lost their way, all the while getting dumped on from the white coatings shaking loose from the trees as we brushed by them. No precip falling from the sky but in hindsight, we probably should have had our pack covers on.
No the signs aren’t mounted at ground level. There’s just that much snow! There’s actually another one buried beneath.
And then the trees open up to a clearing and the North summit is reached. Fabulous views in all directions. This is much different than my previous visit. The deep snow lifts us higher up and offers more visibility over the treetops, whereas last time a had to make my way to another lookout ledge, which is of course now buried.
Summit pose before the steep butt-slide down from North peak.
(I suck at this!)
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And as the trail flattens out once more and we make our way back to the hairpin turn on the Kanc we feel the blessings bestowed upon us by the creator of this immense beauty. A privilege to be cherished.
Even as we load our snow covered gear into the back of my rickety old Rav4, and the hunger growling from our empty bellies drown out the breeze whistling through the trees, the sun sinking to the raised horizon of the mountains beyond gives a promise of more beauty to come in the day that follows.
DAY TWO- STARR KING/WAUMBEK: There will be time to acknowledge the soreness later. For now, we know that these fair weather opportunities can be hard to come by in the mountains, and are to be taken advantage of, at every chance that presents itself. So we fuel up with a quick breakfast and a cup of inspiration, and hit the road northbound to Coös County and the Pliny Range for a more gentle incline up Waumbek. The skies aren’t quite as blue as yesterday, but this is the perfect undertaking for such days as this.
This could not be more different than yesterday. A gentle slope meandering through the forest. When I last visited Waumbek, It was a foggy drizzly summer day giving the woods an eerie presence. Winter has transformed this place into a different world, a fantasy land of sorts.
The wooded summit of Waumbek offers no open views, but the smaller peak enroute to our destination, Star King provides a nice one of the Northern Presis and more to our south.
After a summit pose we continue our stroll through the woods
And in no time at all, we arrive. Some hot cocoa and some lunch over some chit-chat with a couple that arrived shortly after us, and we start to retrace our steps. Another NH4k in the books for therese and another W48 peak for me.
Some repeat views in reverse on the way out.
Crusing down at a good pace on the fluffy white. swish swish swish…like walking on clouds.
And then before we know it we are finished and walking the road back to our car.
Treated to a fire in the sky to warm my heart on my commute, as I ponder the weekends blessings…
Back in the NY groove
(Slide Mtn: 3/5, Nippletop-26, Dial-27 :3/6)
Turning the page into a Sunday in March, and I’m heading out west again to meet up with Therese and Simba for day one in the Catskills, then heading up North to the high peaks for a long solo Monday. The weather and schedule dictated the hiking days once again, and I will not miss Monday in the office one bit!
Slide Mountain is one of the two Catskills that are official peaks of the Northeast 111 (which actually consists of 115 peaks). These lists take on a life of their own once you decide to get a few of em under your belt. Once you’ve done NH48 it seems “easy” enough to get 14 more in Maine and 5 more in VT to complete the NE67, and then once you’ve added the ADK 46 you need only grab 2 more in NY to get you to 115. So why not? Besides, this is a nice easy hike for Simba. The trickiest part is the water crossing at the very beginning with unstable snow bridges, but we just had to pick the right spot to cross and keep our boots dry. The rest of it was a cakewalk.
Simba was avoiding the paparazzi that day for some reason, but we managed to pin him down for a few poses.
The views over the trees were nice at the summit.
All in all, a nice warm-up hike on a rather warm late winter day.
And then came HOOKY DAY!
Now I was ready for a long day in the Daks! Turns out I would get them ALL TO MYSELF (or so it seemed). I saw but only one other person all day! Other than that, nothing but God’s country!
But first a roadwalk through Ausable Club AMR which is now deserted. This is a private country club you must pass through on foot to get to the trails in this section of ADK. A nice warm-up to the day.
The gate marks the unpaved portion of road, and today this is a sheet of ice, so on with the Microspikes. Carrying the snowshoes on my back for now.
The first turnoff I encounter is where I will finish off the day, so I continue to walk the road along the mostly frozen Ausable River’s East Branch, to my start point at Gill Brook Trail.
An hour into my day I finally get to my turnoff and hit the trail!
Last time I saw this stretch of trail was a much different story. We were finishing up a long beautiful, although somewhat muddy, day on Colvin and Blake during peak foliage, and the stream’s cascading falls offered a soothing ambiance to our aching tired bodies and minds. Now winter has frozen everything and its as if time has stood still, waiting for me to witness this moment at every turn. I of course cannot resist capturing every amazing scene like a kid in a candy store!
<– Hmmm, Is there ever a choice really??
AND I AM IN MY HAPPY PLACE ONCE AGAIN…
Another junction marks the next stage of the journey. Another left here.
Filtered sunlight above as I make my way to the Ponds in the col off Elks Pass. Plenty of deep post holes to avoid from last week’s warm-up, but it has since firmed up with a blast of cold from the North. Spikes are still all I need so far.
Sun peaking out now as I approach the ponds. I pause here to soak in some rays and grab a quick snack.
Hearing some distant footsteps getting closer, I get back on my way, to stay ahead of them. Call me selfish but these are MY mountains today! Slowly inching up the steep curves of Nippletop ,the views get better and better and the feeling of my intimate encounter with the mountains more profound the closer I get. (bow-chicka-wow-wow)
Up further and further until…Almost there!
Then just like that, I arrive to this amazing point. The tip of the nip!
And I grab all the wondrous beauty it has to offer!
(Click here for video of Nippletop Summit)
Then the footsteps approach once again, and my only human encounter of the day arrives on the scene. We exchange some summit conversation and photographer duties and he exits, to get back to the junction where he is uncertain weather to backtrack his steps or continue onto Dial, like me. I enjoy the views for a bit more then head out myself. Still many more miles to cover!! I pass him once again on my way to peak #2 and put some distance between us. Between the two peaks I get another time-stand-still moment, where the silence is so profound that I have to stop and take it in. I try to capture this moment once again, but as I pan around the creaking of my pack breaks the stillness. Sometimes you just need to put the camera down and take it in.
Before too long, I arrive at the lookout just before the wooded true summit of Dial. This gives me fantastic views of the Great Range, and a perfect spot to grab some lunch and enjoy the show.
…And Life is good!
My dessert makes me think “Got Milk?” and if only I were still on Nippletop. Gabe Falker says you can milk anything with nipples! Well, I guess hot (or luke warm) Cocoa will have to do.
After a good long break, I tear myself away from the main attraction to put on some more miles. Next stop Bear Den and then over a portion of Noonmark mountain.
(Click here for video of Dial outlook)
Bear Den was nothing spectacular but the mood gets a bit eery as I make my way through the scorched forest with the scronnie trees of the 2nd growth leading up to the shoulder of Noonmark, which suffered the effects of a big fire years ago leaving bare rock ledges. A recipe for more great views!
Kinda Spooky here.
But Plenty of views through the dwarfed growth.
Going on 8 hours now and feeling good. Its all downhill from here.
Spikes served me well the whole way. Looks like the snowshoes had a free ride today!
After some crazy downhill trotting, made it back to the road before dark. Then another hour back to the car and I’m ready for the 4.5 hour drive home after some clean clothes and a stop for a bacon burger. BEST MONDAY EVER!! Much better than sitting in my cubicle battling the office chaos! Thank You so much once again, you beautiful wonderful mountains! Can’t wait to return!
…And Winter 2017 comes to a close (Whiteface/Passaconaway 3/19)
The final day of winter brought me back to the New Hampshire. It was great to celebrate the closing of another amazing winter in the place where my winter hiking began – my Whites. A 10.5 mile loop over Whitefaace and Passaconaway gives me a fresh perspective on this area that was bursting with spring life my last time around. I thought about how the snow-fall season has added so much to my love of hiking and the mountains, and how each year gets better than the last, and teaches me new lessons and brings new gifts. I think back at this season in particular and the wide variety it brought, from a never-ending death march testing my limits to short carefree easy days, from peaceful solitude to laughter and sharing, from the Berkshires in Mass, to the Catskills and Adirondack in NY, to the Whites in NH, to the Greens in VT, and now in a few days plans to meet up in Maine with the other set of footsteps I have counted on so much lately, my sister and hiking buddy. She is taking another trek today with a group of friends in the Daks to tag Street and Nye. I am thinking of her from time to time, but also enjoying this time with no thoughts at all, just me and the mountains.
…And the sun sets on the last full day of the best winter yet! It’ll be hard to top this one for sure, but I will certainly try like hell in 2018!
BUT WAIT! Winter might be over but we’ve got one more trick up our sleeve to say farewell to an unforgettable season. With Therese finishing up a business trip in Maine, we met up on a very cold start to Spring’17 to bag our very first Main-er (if that’s even what they call em) – Old Speck. It was the coldest trek of the Winter, even though we were into Spring. But a perfect last hurrah with our snow gear before we went into our Spring hiatus waiting to transition into what would be an amazing summer in the Adirondacks to finish our 46-er quest! But we’ll be back next year to play in the snow again!