ADK- MacIntyre Range & Great Range
(Iroquois-14, Algonquin-15, Wright-16, Marcy-17, Phelps-18)
Well it’s been while since I’ve written one of these. Here it is in the merry (and muddy) month of May and I just finished writing the long Winter 2017 entry. But given the upcoming temps this week reaching as high as the lower 90’s, I didn’t think snow talk was very fitting. Instead I think a look back at last summer and a look forward to this one suits the current mood. Thinking back to last year there was so many amazing memories to recall as I was in the thick of exploration of new lands out west and approaching the grand finale of another journey two states away. I can only hope that this summer will compare. I am sure it will be EPIC anyway I look at it, with at least 4 overnight backpack trips in the works with many miles to cover and many smiles to uncover.
To set the mood for these hot steamy days ahead, I’ll take it back to last August where I find myself back at the Loj on Heart Lake.
After getting a hefty second helping of the Adirondacks in July, and taking a long plunge into the middle of nowhere in the Whites to get to #47-Isolation (one shy of the big finish), I am back in the Daks to take on the 2nd highest Peak – Algonquin, and it’s two neighbors, Iroquois and Write. Together the make up the majority of the MacIntyre Range, minus one trail-less Peak, Marshall (which I have already written about).
This range called to me from my first looks at the Daks, back when we were planning our first attempt at Colden, which rises out of the lakes on the other side of the beautiful Avalanche pass, which I am really excited to include as part of today’s mammoth hike! It is the sheer cliffs and slides of Colden and Avalanche mountain that plunge into the pass and form the two lakes of the same name that paint a picture like none I’ve seen and lure me into its beauty. I can’t wait to see it in person! So, I set out after breakfast at the Loj to start my day.
As I head past Marcy Dam I notice a parallel in my methods in tackling the highest peaks in the whites, where I had hiked Adams before taking on Washington. Maybe knocking off the 2nd highest gives me a confidence boost for #1. I don’t know but if the parallel holds true, this one will be more difficult than Marcy. We shall see.
About a mile later and I turn on to the trail that leads me through the pass, then another half mile and I start to see what the hype is about. And it lives up to it and then some. Couldn’t ask for a better spot to take my first break. This is what I love about summer. The days are long and there is ample time to linger a bit at these many picturesque areas.
Then after I get my fill, I head out along the cliffs of Avalanche mountain where there is no shore, only wooden catwalks bolted to the cliff face, known as “Hitch-up Matildas” getting their name from an old story about a female hiker in a skirt getting carried on another’s back through the water. As I travel the walkways I get views of Colden’s impressive slides and the infamous Trapdike. My sister and I have decided to finish together on this mountain, after our first failed attempt last fall. Wouldn’t it be EPIC to go up by way of the Trapdike?
Anyway, after reaching the Northwest shore of Lake Colden a bang a sharp right and begin the second leg of my journey – the steep wet climb up the face of the mighty Algonquin! This is a brutal undertaking on this hot summer day, navigating wet rocky stream banks, waterfalls and perpetually steep inclines.
The views behind me grow more and more inspiring as I claw my way higher up the slope, reaching its pinnacle at a junction with the unmarked trail to the left the alpine section of Gonk’s summit-bound stretch to my right and the grand views across the pass behind me. I pause here briefly to catch my breath.
These pauses, granted to me by the long warm days are what I miss the most during the winter. As much as I love the snowy season, I sometimes feel to some extent cheated of a lengthy lounge, when I have to push on just for the sake of staying warm. Looking back on days like this one, gets me excited for the upcoming season. With 19 peaks left on my 46er journey, the way I see it shaping up is 4 overnight (or multi-night) trips, with the addition of a blast up Sawteeth and a long day out to Allen, and of course the finisher. Therese and I have been trying since the close of Winter-17 to sync our schedules up and free up as many opportunities as possible to get these trips in this summer and hopefully make our final stand atop Mount Colden by early Autumn. The trips appear to be as follows: The Dix Range, covering 5 peaks over about 16 miles and 5,800 ft in elevation; The Sewards, covering 4 peaks over 21 miles and 6,800 ft elev; The (soggy) Santanoni Range, including 3 peaks over 17 miles and 5,000 ft elev; And the final trip (which could be broken into two) including Skylight, Gray, Cliff and Redfield. Some long days and hard work are ahead of us for sure, but this is the time to get em done. Can’t wait for the mud to firm up and for June to bust out all over!!
Back to that day in the Mac’s, there are many out here at timberline today as I wind my way through the stubby dwarfed trees, on the unofficial, but well defined trail over Boundary and up to Iroquois. I greet a family group, a mother and two young ones, coming down the other direction. “How’s the view over there?” I ask. “Fabulous” the mother says. The youngest lad of the group adds, “When you get up near the top don’t go right, go left around the steep rock”. Chuckling I respond, “Ok thanks. I’ll keep that in mind. Enjoy this beautiful day, guys!” and with that I continue on my way. The summit is somewhat gusty but as promised earlier, Fab views aplenty! I find a notch in the rocks out of the wind and enjoy a well-deserved lunch break amongst the giants of the Daks.
Retracing my steps after my break, to the junction and beyond, I see the summit of Algonquin is quite busy. And why shouldn’t it be? You’d be a fool to pass up a day like today to walk in the wispy clouds. Well at the moment it is less of a stroll and more of a grind as I huff and I puff and I gasp for air up the massive rock faces and ledges onto the next cairn, and then the next, and the next – All the while getting words of encouragement from passers-by: “Your almost there!”, “Just a little longer!”, “You got this!”, “It’s amazing up there. Well worth it!”
I see a girl soloist ahead of me hunched over from time to time, clearly sharing my struggle. I eventually catch up to her close to the summit and remark, “Boy this had better be good!” “I know this CRAZY HARD!” she responds. “Well if it were easy… (looking at the summit crowd) …Oh wait – Everybody IS doing it!” A period of laughter follows, until our air supply runs out. Then a pause. A drink. Another pause… Finally, I finish the exchange with “OK C’mon. Let’s DO THIS THING!” We each scrap and scramble our way up the final stretch until at last, ARRIVAL!! THE MIGHTY GONK!!! A high-five and we then go our separate ways, to each claim a spot to call our own and linger the afternoon away.
I gaze out to the neighboring peaks and wonder what stories each of them hold on this day. I remember the family from the Loj at breakfast, who were heading to Marcy today and I wonder how they made out. Funny thing about the mountains- You can enjoy hours and hours of solitude, peace, serenity, and all the while feel connected to each and every one of your fellow hikers, though strangers in the “real” world, one big family in this place. As I head out to the return leg of my loop, with one last climb left along the way, I spot my fellow summit struggle companion now appearing to be napping on a flat rock. “Enjoy the rest. You’ve earned it!” I remark on my departure. “And then some!” she retorts. Then I plunge back into the trees to gear up for one more summit push.
The mile descent goes by in no time at all, when the junction up to Wright is upon me.
It’s only 0.4 miles to the day’s final peak, but I have the feeling it will take all I’ve got. After all, these are “Adirondack Miles”.
But I must be on auto pilot by now, because, although steep and scrambly, it seems pretty easy. I suppose it’s all relative.
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I look around for the plaque I had read about, commemorating 4 men who died in a Airforce bomber crash here in the 60s, and supposedly there are crash remnants as well. I must be looking in the wrong spot though, because all I see is this sign saying to return to the trail. Well I’m feeling the miles at this point and head out to bring this day to a close.
Looking back on that long day in the Macs has got me so looking forward to this summer and some longer days to soak in the carefree sunshine on the summits without a concern for running out of daylight and freezing my tail off. Indeed, it is only May and we have already had some 90 degree days. I tried some hiking on one of those days and didn’t get too far. But mountains are usually a nice escape from the brutal heat that exists in the bay state. A few more weeks to wait out the mud and the black flies and I will be heading up north every chance I get!
For now, I will stay further south where the winter recovery is further along. I am just getting back from a weekend in the Berkshires and Catskills, and the weather and conditions were absolutely perfect. Mom and Sean shared the first day with me and I took them to Bash Bish Falls and Alander Mountain, easily my favorite hike in the Berks.
Then I took a drive out west to the Catskills and got Hunter Mountain under my belt, for whenever I complete the Northeast 111 list (which is actually 115 peaks). Next, I have a Sawteeth hike in my sights, and its looking like my niece Janelle will be joining me. Great way to kick off the summer season in the Daks. Maybe the highlight (or certainly the highest height) of last summer was the day I took on Marcy.
It is another warm day on the unofficial final weekend of summer, the day before Labor Day. One year ago, on this weekend I got my first taste of the magical energy that these Adirondacks generate. Now I am heading out to the “Cloud-Splitter” of the Daks – MARCY! Therese is doing a Half Ironman triathlon today which is a 70.3 mile race with Biking, Swimming and Running. That’s way more miles than I’ll be attempting, but then again, I’ll be elevating my efforts – about 4000 ft worth of elevation that is. So, we will be using each other for inspiration today to get to where we need to be. I am playing it by ear of course, but adding to the 14 mile round trip is the possibility of including Phelps which would put the total somewhere around 17.5 miles. To this point, the only day hike I’ve done longer than that was the dreaded but wonderful Owls Head in the middle of the Pemi Wilderness back in the Whites. So, we’ll see how I feel about the 2nd peak after I grab the first one, but in any event, I am geared up for a long day in the Daks. Well, HEY… I got nothing better to do with my day (because there IS nothing better on earth).
As I fly by Marcy Dam, a sight I have seen a few times now and will see many more, and work through the miles on this EPIC trek I realize that there are quite a bit of EPIC events happening this month. Next week Therese and I are revisiting the birthplace of mountain love – THE BONDS. Then a week later I have a big support crew sharing a big milestone with me as I finish the NH48 on Garfield. For today at least, I have my sights on the next list as an “Aspiring 46-er”. I realize, whizzing past Avalanche Pass trail junction with sound of Phelps Brook rushing by on my right, that I could be just one hike shy of catching up to sis after today.
Making note of the split-off to Phelps, which I will be returning to if all goes well, I set sights on the next group ahead to pass. 
There are plenty of folks on the trail this holiday weekend. I saw on the facebook page that at least one person will be finishing on Marcy today! I saved his picture (Marty is his name), so I can cheer him on if I run into him.
I see a few familiar faces today from hikes of days gone by, including a trio I met last time on Algonquin. Barely noticing another split to Tabletop in my rear view mirror, we have some friendly back n forth for a bit, but then as they pause for a break I must leave them in the dust.
You see I am focused on kicking some ass today, keeping my stops to a minimum, and keeping my energy level high, so I can reach the highest high in the state of NY. As a result, my stops for pictures are few and far between as well, until I reach my destination. I decline a stop at Indian Falls, forge ahead on the Van Hoevenberg as there will be future opportunities to take in the Falls. I stop only briefly for a handful of trail-mix, a chug of water or when views of Marcy come into view as I pass junctions with Hopkins and Phelps trails leading to the JBL and Keene Valley.
Marcy is becoming ever so close now as her peak now fills my view and I make my way into the alpine zone. 
A flat boggy area with wooden walkways leads me to the start of the summit-bound stretch. I can taste victory (or was that an almond?) With the thoughts of what Therese must be enduring on her journey today to motivate me when my mind falters in the slightest, I push on, cairn after cairn, up the bare rock ledges, feeling energized and inspired. 
And then, at last the plateau of today’s purpose is realized. I am on top of the world (or at least New York). Now, finally, I can pause and take in the rewards for my efforts.
The views are spectacular as advertised. But as is the case with the highest peak off any state, especially on a clear day like today, the people flock in from every direction to share the view. I manage to find a spot with some elbow room, overlooking what I think must be Skylight, to share my sandwich with the swarms of tiny little bugs that are amongst the crowds today, on this uncharacteristically windless summit.
True to form, I must say that Algonquin indeed was the tougher climb, proving that 2nd on the list doesn’t mean 2nd fiddle to your superior. I take another stroll around the area, overhearing some of the stewards giving their groups a spiel on alpine vegetation and whatnot. Then a group approaches the summit blasting rap music, and that is my cue to move on in search of a quieter place. Now I know that there is definitely another destination on the table for today.
On my way backtracking my steps I once again encounter the trio I met earlier and they ask if I am heading up to Phelps. “Absolutely” I respond, “Feeling pretty good still.” A bit more chit-chat and we part ways once again as I plunge down to the turn-off riding the waves of my vigor.
Talk about polar opposites! Both the 1.2 mile trail to the top, and the summit itself were deserted. It is here where I get my fix of solitude and the one spot where I linger a while and have my moment with the mountain. I can’t believe how calm and peaceful it is here. Is this really the same hike?
After quite some time just lying there soaking it in, I finally pull myself together to complete the day. At this point I am relaxed and no longer energized, but I dig deep into my reserves for just enough juice to get me back to my car, on autopilot.
That last stretch out from the dam is brutal and seemingly unending – my stomach growling. Dragging my final steps to my car, I dive head first into my cooler, pouring the ice cold water onto my burning feet and over my head, and devour the last bit of food it contains – 6 pieces of turkey, 3 pieces of cheese, one beer, one Gatorade, and a half bag of pretzels. I rip my sweat drenched clothes off, with no regard to the onlookers passing by and slip in the oh so comfy cotton tee-shirt and sweatpants. On my way out of the parking lot, my muscles aching, and knees screaming, I read a very appropriately worded sign, although it contains info that might have been more helpful at the beginning of the day – “ROUGH ROAD AHEAD” – NOW they tell me!!
With the sun setting on the horizon over the field to my left, I begin the 2 ½ hour drive back to the lake-house where Therese is already resting from her long day and enjoying a hot soak and a pizza! I will follow suit upon my arrival when you are asleep, and we will exchange stories in the morning as we enjoy a lazy morning on the lake.
Another epic ending to the Dak days of summer. Fitting that Labor Day weekend brought the finishing touches on the Great Range I started the same weekend last year.
…AND NOW I CAN’T WAIT FOR THE NEXT SUMMER SEASON ON THE HORIZON.