Adirondack High Peaks
(Mt. Colden #46)
With the Christmas tree lit in front of me, and a sleeping cat warming my feet, I think to myself that there is one gift so great, it could never fit under this tree (or even under the Rockefeller Plaza one), and it has been given to me, my sister, and thousands of others who walk these trails! I sit here at my laptop about to sum up this 46er journey with a recollection of our finishing steps on our final peak. I take a look back at past journal entries, my vast collection of photos, each of our letters to the Adirondack Mountain Club, and I search my soul for the right words to describe how thankful I am for this gift. Is there a word that I have been saving for this moment to carry the magnitude of my feelings of how lucky I am to be here…now… to say how precious these experiences, both tender and grand, have been and what they have meant to me?
The answer of course is No there are no words, only actions. The best thing I can do is NOT to think of this as a journey’s end but a continuation and a landmark on a much larger one- one that has no end.
So, I will put one foot in front of the other and repeat. I will look around at all around me. I will feed on the energy of the majestic landscape, the rushing water, the changing skies. I will breath deep and exhale. I will find time to give back to the trails that have given me back my very life. I will never take any of it for granted.
And so, even though there are no words to adequately express the magnitude of this moment and how I feel about this place, these faces, and most of all how blessed I am to share this with my sister by my side , I will spit out as many as I can muster up, once again, to try and capture the mood of the day. We begin once again on a crisp October morning at ADK Loj on Heart Lake…
We arrived in the High Peaks the afternoon before and turned onto the Loj Rd greeted by views across the field to the MacIntyres, to the slides of our finishing peak, and even a snow-capped Algonquin in the distance.
Once checked in, I headed out to the lake for a closer look to set the mood for the following day. After exchanging stories and backgrounds with the other guests over a Loj-style dinner buffet, we headed back to our room for some shut-eye while visions of mountaintops danced in our heads.
After Breakfast the next day, we checked out of the Loj and into the trail head, where we each grabbed a Larger rock to throw in our packs, accompanying the walnut sized one we had saved from our previous Colden attempt 2 years ago. These rocks WILL find their final resting place upon the summit long before this morning’s sun sets on the shores of Lake Colden or dips behind the Macs. No turning back – not today! We made sure we picked the best possible day, so that no Ice-monsters will stand in our way. He bit us hard 2 years ago, so today we seek redemption and a fitting finish to an EPIC journey.
Once again, we are starting with the all too familiar trek to Marcy Dam, followed by a climb up to Lake Arnold, and then up to the false summit (the point we bailed last time) and then up to the true summit and down the South-western slopes to Lake Colden and through Avalanche Pass for our return trip. In order to save more time for the more enjoyable parts of the loop, we have decided to Jog the distance to Marcy Dam. These days I am more up for a jog, since I have recently done my first obstacle 5k race and low and behold, now actually like running! – Whoduthunk??
We whiz past the morning crowds and pause at our landmark for a quick selfie. Now we will slow the pace and ENJOY every moment of this “final” walk. We have certainly earned it!
Making the split-off toward Lake Arnold, we are now moving at more of a stroll through the autumn woods. This year’s foliage is less brilliant due to the warmer than normal September. In some areas the leaves have not yet forfeited their green to reveal the warm side of the color wheel, while in other areas fall has already fallen. The later seems to be the case in the trail we now walk but we will take the muted color over the icy slip n slide we attempted to navigate 2 years prior.
After all, last year’s intense foliage display more than made up for it! As I walk along and see splashes of color, my mind drifts to a day this time twelve months earlier, when I experienced without question, the most vivid colored walk in the woods in any memory I have, on a solo hike up over The Brothers to Big Slide, followed up a day later with Therese on Indian Head, Colvin and Blake.
(click here for full gallery).
My mind would drift again and again throughout the day, as I reflect back to all of the long wonderful days gone by that have led us to this milestone day.
But there is plenty around us to keep us in the moment too. Rays of sunshine filtering through the forest canopy. The bright red berry I’ve seen over & over and have never been able to resist a photo opp.
The transformation in my surroundings I have witnessed time after time as I gain elevation, sometimes subtle, but often as dramatic as summer to winter within a single day. Indeed, even today, the grass is layered with frost and interspersed with patches of the white stuff, revealing a taste of seasons to come, as we arrive at Lake Arnold just above 3500 ft.
With an army of bare sticks standing along the slopes before us, in contrast against the deep blue sky, we pull up a boulder on the shoreline to pause for a snack. A passerby arrives on the scene, just in time to snap a photo of me and my sister, then we continue on.
On our way to our next vista we recognize the formation we dubbed ICE MONSTER the last time we passed this way, although now he is much more tamed. No longer standing guard as a menacing presence, he lets us pass with ease.
Then we arrive at the false summit. The zero-visibility spot where we had previously performed an about-face, had so much more to show us this time around! We lingered here for a while to take it all in. Such a beautiful spot with grand views of the MacIntyres and more! Yes we will linger to our hearts content today. This day belongs to us!
It was funny to see the trail markers and cairns pointing the way, as none of this was visible on the first attempt (Click here to read about that attempt). Now it was finally time to venture into unexplored territory.
We dipped back into the trees and walked for a while until we arrived at a ladder that led us up a good stretch of the next would-be scramble – HOW LUXURIOUS! Sometimes when I see these I wonder “why”? The terrain beneath these ladders is often moderately difficult at best, while some of our unassisted scrambles have been far more challenging. Not that I would have wanted ladders everywhere, or necessarily would not have welcomed this one. Just something that made me go “hmmm” I suppose.
After some more red berries, patches of snow and a neat cave, we arrived at some pretty awesome views and of course the pile of rocks where we made our offerings. including the walnut sized rock from our last non-visit.
And then, after another short jaunt, just like that, almost hard to believe, we became (unofficially yet happily) two more members in this elite club of hikers – WE WERE NOW 46-ers!!!
We looked around at the peaks surrounding us and let the idea sink in that we have actually been to all of these amazing places, and got to each summit under our own power. Each one of these bumps that scattered the horizon in every direction had their own story filled with memories that would last a lifetime.
That last sentiment is indeed the reason I spend so many hours typing away, trying to choose the best words to describe this indescribable experience. I want these memories to be documented so that I can go back to any moment at any time and relive the journey. Of course, images and words don’t tell the whole story. To fully relive the moment, I would have to physically go back, which I am always perfectly happy to oblige. But even then, that would be a new moment with its own story. Each one of these gems, happens only once – a precious moment in time never to be duplicated, but eternally alive in each of our hearts.
These are the thoughts that consumed me as we sat for our extended summit visit atop Mount Colden, conversing with fellow “Aspire-ees” over lunch, and posed for our long awaited 46-er photos, proud and honored beyond words. We took out the Colden patches we gave ourselves as celebration patches, to hold ourselves over until we received our 46er patches and documented the momentous occasion.
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We stayed for a while more and it felt like we could have stayed there forever to savor our victory, had it not been for the fact that we had only traveled half of the day’s miles, and that more divine wonders await us on the return trip through avalanche pass.
So, we proceeded to pry ourselves away and begin our descent down the red-marked Lake Colden trail.
At this point we were higher on life than the 47,144’ elevation we reached today, and were downright giddy!
So, when we reached another wooden ladder Therese broke into a Chorus Line routine, and I was quick-thinking enough, and could not resist hitting the record button to capture this fun moment on video.
(click here for video of Therese’ song and dance)
We encountered a few groups ascending in our opposite direction, and of course we were so pleased with ourselves we had to share with the world what we had accomplished today! True to form of the happy-hiker community, everyone was genuinely happy for us and offered enthusiastic congratulations, which we ate up! One gentleman (a fellow 46-er) in one of the groups, upon hearing the news, asked us if we had received our patches yet, and proceeded to dig through his pack and pulled our two of his extras and gave them to us! It was like being a kid on Christmas day …but BETTER! We were so happy and appreciative of his gesture, and when he took a picture of us posing with our new badges of honor, I think our smiles told the story.
We reached the bottom of our plunge, just in time to plunge our feet into an ice-cold Lake Colden and exchange them for new ones. Well one these new feet must have not liked the leg it was attached to, and all of the sudden I felt a tightening creeping in – “NO-NO-NO-STOP-STOP-STOP-OUCH-OUCH- AAAAUUGH!!!!” – Charley-horse!!! Not the worst one I’ve had but I usually get them mid-sleep not mid-hike. I was able to work the cramp through and it turned out to be a minor setback. It wouldn’t be the Adirondacks without some sort of injury after all. This time it was my turn. If that was our setback, I’d call this a perfect day in the Daks!
We began to leisurely make our way through one of the most beautiful spots in the region – Avalanche Pass. As we navigated and admired the newly rebuilt “Hitchup Matildas”, wooden walkways attached to the cliff faces that rise out of the lake, we marveled at the sights before us.
Across the two lakes that make up the pass (Colden and Avalanche), the vertical north-western slopes of Mount Colden rise from the water revealing the famous Trap Dike – a gash in the mountains cliffs that only the most adventurous (or insane) climbers attempt to make a traveled route. People have died attempting it. Still, I will have to admit it is very tempting. I’d have to say that it’s probably on my to-do list, but I may take with me someone who has done it before, if I do it at all.
On the western shores of the lakes that hold our traveled route the sheer cliffs of avalanche mountain rise over our heads.
The scene is rugged, majestic, serene, and awe inspiring all at once. It’s no wonder so many regard this area as their favorite in all of the Adirondacks.
As we reach the northernmost shore we pause for one last look at this grand view and give our thanks to this amazing gift that is the Adirondacks.
Back to normal trail hiking now and coming to the close of our big lollipop loop, I turn to my sister and say, “If you want to jog back from Marcy Dam I am game!” …And that’s what we did. We are anxious to get back to comforts of hike recuperation. Although leaving our mountains tonight with our newly realized goal will be bittersweet for sure. It’s hard to believe we will not be coming back in a week to conquer our next high peak. What is next?
The following day, on my ride on i-90 to my Massachusetts home away from the mountains (my heart’s true home), the events from our previous day and of our entire Adirondack journey replay in my head, and I feel the need to express my thanks for this experience on the Aspiring 46ers Facebook page, and then in the following weeks as I struggle with the aftermath and am filling out my paperwork for registering as a 46-er, I feel the need to express and reflect once again in my letter to the organization. My sister did the same. They sum up, perhaps the best, how we feel about this place, this experience, each other, and everyone who shares this amazing magical journey. Here are each of our letters:
My 46er letter
It all started Labor Day weekend 2015. In the middle of my NH48 run, I pause for a weekend backpack trip with my sister, and a change of scenery. She is slowly chipping away at her 46er list as this is closer to her home in NY. Right away I get the feeling that this is a special place much different than the Whites I have grown accustomed to. We hike into our base camp at JBL and the next morning begin our long hike through “HA-BA-SA”, and my intro to the wonderful world of the Daks. If I had to use one word to describe my reaction once we reached Haystack summit it would have to be “Magic”. I seemed to have been transported to a land where only beauty exists as far as the eye can see. Gone are the roads and towns below and only lakes, rivers, valleys, streams, meadows, forest, and these magnificent mountains all around me remain. The sky could not be bluer, the breeze could not be fresher, the smells could not be sweeter. It is love at first sight! After an equally magical day two on Armstrong, Gothics and the Wolfjaws, it’s clear that I have officially found my new quest. I am now an “Aspiring 46er”.
So many memories filled my journey since then. Too many to list here, but some highlights (and a few low-lights) include the following: A lazy barefoot summer afternoon lounge on an unlikely deserted Giant summit after a day of open views on RPR. Bonding with a stranger on an epic struggle up the slopes of Algonquin when this solo hiker girl and I kept each other company up the final scrambles, giving each other inspiring words to keep going. A weekend of peak foliage on Big Slide solo and Colvin/Blake with my sister, witnessing colors I never knew could be so brilliant! A two-attempt long frustrating slog from upper works to tag Marshall, losing the trail, and sinking waist-deep in snow, and setting a record for use of the F-word in one hike. Having seemingly the entire high peaks region to myself on a profoundly quiet peaceful winter hooky day on Nippletop and Dial. Introducing my niece to the Daks on Sawteeth witnessing her pure joy to be showered by the wall of water in Rainbow Falls (unfortunately ending with a trip to the hospital after diabetic complications). A surprisingly enjoyable trek to Allen filled with such varied scenery including lush meadows, moss covered forests, brooks, ponds, steep slippery scrambles, and some amazing spider-webs. Connecting with my sister and with the mountains on a deeper level on some epic (and MUDDY) multi-night backpack trips to Dix range, Cliff-Redfield, and Seward range (one of which included learning some backwoods lessons the hard way after a scare, getting separated from my partner). Saying goodbye to an amazing golden retriever and a dear friend on Skylight. Connecting with a wonderful new friend, in a long fun-filled day in the Santanoni range. An icy, late fall bail-out on Colden, redeemed with a perfect, early-fall day 2 yrs later as our finishing peak!
It’s so hard to believe this journey is nearing an end, but really, it has only just begun. I have learned so much about myself, and more importantly, have been so blessed to share this experience and strengthen the bond with my sister. I have seen so many heavenly places, and trudged through hellish lands, en-route to this final achievement and have met many wonderful people along the way that seem to open their hearts and genuinely care to offer helpful advice and share their stories, welcoming a stranger into their world. The day after finishing this amazing journey I posted the following words on the Aspiring 46ers Facebook page that sums up how I feel about these beautiful places and people in the Daks:
Yesterday my sister and I summited Mt Colden and became two more of the 46ers. To me that title means so much more than the number it displays. This journey had taught me to appreciate life and the simple beauty it possesses to its fullest. At times the experience has humbled me, and others has enriched and lifted my spirits to heights I never thought possible. To those still “Aspiring”, my advice to you would be to ENJOY THE JOURNEY! Weather your pace is fast or slow, each time you set foot on that trail take a piece of that day with you and hold it forever near and dear to your heart. Each hike has a gift to give for all who are willing to receive. I believe that the mountains speak to each and every one of us if we have an open ear and open hearts. Sometimes they speak loud and clear, other times in a soft whisper so listen closely. There are few things so precious in this life and they should never be taken for granted. I am truly thankful to all those on this page who have had so much great advice, spectacular images, and amazing stories to share. I have met so many genuinely caring people on the trail, and even hiked alongside a few of you. Weather we have met (or ever will meet) face to face, I’ll always consider you one of the family. One big happy hiker family! Thank you and see you on the trail!
Always Aspiring,
Mick Coste
Therese’s 46er Letter
The summer of 2012 marked the summer I read 3 books in a row about rugged earthy women “survivalists” (including the popular “Wild”). I was remembering a promise I made to myself a long time ago to hike the Appalachian Trail. Finding myself mother of 3 and tuitions to pay I decide to take that remembrance and transform it to a new goal more aligned to my current lifestyle. It was time for me to learn about “my own” Adirondack Mountains.
My first peak was Marcy and I recall listening to Cat Stevens on the August 2012 morning as I headed out from my summer cabin on Peck Lake in the southern Adirondacks and arrived at the ADK Loj parking lot just before 9AM. The smell of the woods felt like an old dear friend as I tromped along the van Hoevenberg trail, through Marcy Dam and then straight on to Mt. Marcy and back. It was a good, long day with a peaceful visit to Indian Falls on the return where I was blessed with purple irises. A few more peaks that fall and I had begun to hike through my “unrest” as I awakened something inside that had gone dormant too long.
The next couple of years were filled with other milestones, particularly my first 2 (and only) Marathons (NYC and Boston). In 2015, hanging up my marathon shoes, I began again in earnest on Labor Day Weekend with my brother Michael (Mick) Coste. We bagged 7 peaks that weekend and made memories that still stay with me. That trip was perhaps one of my favorites of all times. HaBaSa on day 1. Gothics, Armstrong and both Wolfjaws on day 2. It felt so good to be in the rhythm of nature -Walking, talking, joking… and the silence between. Some of the notable memories can be found in my journal of that time:
The stars at night from the JBL, green things and how happy they make me, cables and scrambles up esp. Saddleback and Gothics, summer breezes on summits, jumping in the stream at the end of an arduous day, the loud snoring in the 10-bunker… and resignation when I slept in the kitchen, a baby fawn and its mother, hiking out to an empty parking lot and no shuttle and running to Marcy Field to get the car, a clean cotton shirt at the end of the hike.
Many hikes that followed had lists like these. The fall of 2015 had some classic great weather And the fall of 2016 was even more spectacular! Long lingering discussions about past, present, future with a friend (Shailaja); More memories with my brother Mike; Every hike had a story, and I tried to catalog most of them if only briefly. Colden took 2 tries (as the first was icy and we were not as prepared as we thought!. Stabilicers are NOT microspikes!). We decided on that day (10/22/15) that we would return and make this mountain our finish. And what a finish!! Arguably in my top 3 hikes (though it is a tough call)
The majority of the peaks were spent with my brother Mike. We shared so much together over the last few years. As I think about this past summer leading up to our finish I realize I have a new/old best friend. Together we said goodbye to Simba (my dog and our hiking companion ), we shared family concerns, we laughed and created inside jokes, we befriended an energetic and amazing Anna Pacheco who will also hopefully finish this year, we paused, we rushed, we relaxed, we schemed… we were kids (again).
My solo journeys – inner and outer – were also cherished. I journaled, reflected, contemplated… and perhaps grew. Or at least was calmed for a while… Some excerpts seem to reflect this:
The contemplation today was all about what a strange journey this is… Sometimes it seems that the hike is about trying to re-find my youth – the feeling of comfort and safety that still comes to me when I recollect the moment of first being enthralled by a bumble bee in a flower, or the clouds, or a fireplace when all of the flames have died away and all that is left is the burning coals with mystery and stories for the making. Other times I am all too aware of the despair of our times. Of the poverty that needs tending. Of the incessant rush and squeeze to achieve and get in all that we can so that a life is well lived in spite of the crushing forces of a society gone wrong somewhere. I am aware of my own motherhood – its gifts and its pressures. And I walk… I walk with these thoughts… and I walk with my aching feet… and I notice the purple mushroom and the blue berry and the ferns and the smells… and I breathe. And I think… what a strange journey this is. And Oh Lord Protect My Child!
Other excerpts apologize to Mother Earth for what we have done to her. And the heartfelt, cathartic rush of tears at my smallness and inability to make right what we have all made wrong…
And I pray. I pray that Her resilience and ability to heal is stronger than I know. I ask Her to forgive us…The smog, the pavement, the trampling on Her, our host…And I feel the natives in my blood and my bones. Perhaps it is they I am channeling at this moment –
Through it all – the joy and the pain, the bluebird days, the mud; the autumn air and the sweetness of leaves, which I am sure is somehow mingled with the smell of baking apple pie; the first views at Indian Head or Avalanche Pass; the summits so comforting and grand all at once; the colors of every season; the starkness and pure silence of winter; the comradery with new friends, old friends, or just a passerby… all of it wraps up in a beautiful gift which is “my” Adirondacks. Mine and some 10,000 others!
Thank You,
Therese Coste
In the aftermath of realizing a goal that had been pretty much our purpose over the past 2 years, We both suffered from the “What Now” affect. It’s like being a kid at Christmas and feeling that let down after all the presents have been opened. We really needed a hike for the sake of hiking. It was peak foliage and once more, we called on Vermont to satisfy the craving and get us out of our funk. We took a hooky day, walked the ridge of Mansfield from the Forehead to the Adams-Apple and we laughed and laughed. We were kids once more! “Bring on the next adventure! I’m thinking PEMI-LOOP!”
