(Sandwich Range – Osceola 15, East Osceola 16)

The day I get to test out all that new backpacking gear has arrived! This is normally done by most as a day hike, but I wanted to pick something in the easy range for hiking so I could focus on picking out a spot, setting up camp, and working out any bugs with the new gear. I’ll be trying out something for the first time shelter-wise with the new Hennessey Hammock, which I set up in my back yard earlier in the week and slept like a baby! Now for the real thing, with no security blankets to fall back on. I’ll also have to get the feel of a heavier load in the new Osprey Pack and get used to cooking freeze dried meals on the new Whisper-Lite Stove. All this will add a new level of fun to the trip, like playing with all your new stuff next to the Christmas Tree, except it’s much warmer now on this beautiful summer day and there is more than one tree to lay out my toys by.

Oh yeah then there’s the hike too: The plan is to hike up Osceola and then head over to its Eastern brother. From there I will descend to Greely Pond trail, which has recently been reopened after the damage from the 2011 storm, and set up camp somewhere off this trail. For the 2^nd day, depending how things go, I can either hike out back to Tripoli Rd or take a challenging detour to finish up with the nearby Tripyramids. Lots of variables in the game plan like weather, my physical and mental state, camping doodads and whatnots, and of course if I get “eaten by a bear or attacked by weirdos that lurk in the shadows” (a bit of sarcasm for my friends back home that don’t understand any of this), but anyway there’s a potential of anywhere from 2-4 more peaks to check off the list. By now, I am fully expecting a change in plan and have even planned for the change, as it is bound to happen like it always does.

So I start out at the Tripoli Rd trail head where sure enough there is an overloaded lot full of day hikers getting their little tiny packs on for a quick jaunt up the mountain. I feel strangely out of place as I prepare to load my back with this mammoth load, as I go into my full stretch routine on the road side (the only parking available). The first stretch of trail is a series of fine strap adjustments and getting my balance with the extra weight, but soon enough I get into a groove and it is surprisingly comfortable. I love the antigravity feature on this Osprey Atmos pack. It really does make the load feel much lighter than it actually is. Another picture perfect day with dry trails and blue skies!
A few groups of fellow hikers say hello and ask me if I am practicing with the big pack. “Nope I’m actually camping tonight” I say. “Oh, that’s great!” and “What a perfect day for it!” and “You should see a ton of stars. I’m jealous!” are some of the responses I get. That makes me feel awesome about the trip and adds a spring to my step. It’s great that everyone is so supportive of each other around here. It really makes a difference and energizes you more than any energy drink could ever do.The Mt Osceola Trail is easy to moderate grades with good footing and great scenery. It’s good to be back once again, after a few weekends away. I went with my sister Maryjeanne on a Monadnock day hike last week. We had a great time and I think she caught the hiking bug which always makes me happy.

She doesn’t hike much these days but hopefully I can drag her up here for a few of the easier hikes, and so far this is looking like a good candidate!

The trek to the first peak does not disappoint and contains the usual splendor of the White Mountain woods, which I have described many times now in these writings.
It never gets old and I can never get my fill. The hike is actually pretty similar to Monadnock as far as steepness and distance go and I make it to the summit in about the same time. As I approach elevation, there is another group descending opposite my route and they ask where I’ll be camping. After I explain my plan, they tell me to check out the spot up ahead where there is a narrow side path leading to a clearing and a perfect spot for camping under the stars. I take their advice and sure enough this spot seems too good to be true! I fire ring in the center of a large rock surface clearing surrounded by a few wooded clearings and some more narrow paths connecting them. My plan was to camp down by Greely Pond trail but this is too good to pass up! So I unpack much of my cargo and leave my camping items here, setting up the hammock real quick in one of the treed areas, then proceed on with a lightened load. The summit of Osceola provides another fabulous view of course. There are quite a few hikers lounging around, taking in the sun and the scenery. I pick out a spot and join them while munching down a sandwich, but don’t linger too long because I know I will have this ledge to myself later when I return to camp after the mile jaunt to East peak.

On the way over I arrive at what is referred to as The Chimney, a near vertical rock face with a bypass trail to the side of it. I carefully make my way down the rock face and continue to make my way through the forest to the wooded summit of East Osceola.
Ok nothing to see here, check it off the list and move on. Luckily, as with many of the wooded summits there is a lookout through the trees just below. After taking in some of this, I make my way back, this time climbing up the chimney. This change in venue means more hiking tomorrow so I am unsure if I can include the Tripyramids now, but Greely pond should still provide a nice scenic hike out. For now, I am back at the Osceola summit which is, as expected, now deserted and – ALL MINE!  I sit on the ledge for an extended period and a profound serenity comes over me. I feel like I am the only one in all of the whites. I love that feeling of peace and harmony with nature. Sometimes I wish I could just stay forever, but I know this cannot be so I will soak in all I can while I am here.

As the sun starts to make its way to the treetops behind me, a chill in the air reminds me to head to camp and get a fire going and some grub in my tummy. As I am breaking up the firewood, I notice the glow in the sky beyond the trees so I make my way to a vantage point for a spectacular sunset!

The gentle breeze from earlier has ramped up a bit and the chill is calling me back to camp to get that fire going. On the side I boil some water on my stove and prepare my surprisingly tasty dehydrated chicken and rice meal, then move my bear vault to a safe distance from camp wedged under a downed tree, and return to my hammock to settle in. The breeze is more of a moderate wind now, swaying my cocoon back n forth and rocking me to sleep. Through the course of the night a light rain moves in but my pack is covered outside and I am staying dry in my little nest.

As morning arrives the rain is heavier now. I stay cuddled in my hammock for a while hoping to wait out the showers and have a clearing of the skies. After a while I realize the only thing that is clear is that this is not going to happen any time soon. I pack up my wet camp and prepare for a hike in the rain. I decide to save the Greely pond route for better weather and hike back the way I came instead. Once again, my plans are out the window.
The rain continues to come down throughout my entire descent. It is Monday and most are back at work, but there is one group of three very wet girls making their way to the summit. “How are the views up there?” one of them ask. “Now? Just great!” I reply with sarcastic enthusiasm. “Well it’s better than a day in the office!” another adds. “You got that right!” I answer. “A bad day in the mountains is better than a good day anywhere else!” Then I continue my slow slippery slope downward. Even drenched in rain the woods have a natural beauty to them

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After a while I notice a guy coming up the mountain with the biggest load on his back I have seen! Not even a backpack, just 2 boards tied to milk crates and cardboard boxes full of supplies and heavy gear with giant shovels and other tools all strapped to his back! I didn’t know what to make of this and just said “Wow that’s a heavy load!!” Shortly after that another passes with a similar and maybe even bigger load, huffing and puffing and slowly moving one step at a time up the mountain with his arms behind him bracing his massive bulky burden from the bottom. I don’t bother him with small talk as I can see he is focusing intensely on him monumental task. Then a third approaches moving slowly and methodically with his heavy pack. At this point I had to ask “Are you guys doing some kind of training or something?” “We are packing in” he responds. I’m not sure what this means but I don’t ask for further explanation. Suddenly the extra water weight I am carrying seems extremely light.

The rest of the way down is scattered with more of these gifted souls both male and female, some struggling more than others. I figure out that they must be carrying supplies for the trail crews for an extended stay. I have a new appreciation for everything these crews do to make our mountain experience more pleasant and safe. I will be making it a point to at least help out on trails day and give back to this experience in whatever way I can.

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From here forward I would look at the trails with an eye on all that is man-made, drainage ways, trail markers, borders, trees and limbs that have been cleared, ladders, steps and bridges that have been constructed and think of the people that that have put in countless hours of hard labor to have these things in place for us.

I finally come out of the trail drenched with a new confidence in myself, my gear, and my ability to hike in wet conditions, and to spend more nights in the woods. I will look back on this trip fondly always and remember the connections made and lessons learned in the woods.

(Sandwich Range – Whiteface 13, Passaconaway 14) 

It has been far too long, but I am finally on the road heading north to reconnect with my favorite place in the world, and I couldn’t be happier!! It’s been a long early spring layoff but about time to make up for some lost time. Reconnect seems to be the theme for this weekend. My brother is visiting with his family for the first time since he moved to North Carolina in 2012. I got a chance to spend some time with them Friday night before my gig, and I must say they are doing a fabulous job raising 3 precious kids. I’m so proud of Paul for making the commitment to family time when it matters the most! I get to spend the whole day with them at our memorial day gathering at mom’s and they are busy today with friends so I don’t feel bad at all for taking some time to do something big for myself today.

After an awesome introduction to winter hiking in a record setting snowfall season, I decided to lay low for the early part of spring shoulder season, and not risk an injury on monorails, spruce traps, mashed potato snow, river crossings etc. Instead I stayed local and enjoyed a beautiful Massachusetts April, while I prep for what I hope to be a summer to kick some ass on this list and enjoy the mountains as often as possible. I have spent waaaay too much money this spring on backpacking gear. It seems like every couple of days a package arrives with a new piece of gear: It’s like CHRISTMAS IN APRIL!! I tried to rummage through my camping supplies for stuff I could use on my trips, but it’s all geared toward drive-up campsites in my trusty RAV4, and way too heavy and bulky to load onto my back. I’m excited to take the mountain connection to a new level and spend some nights in the thick of it, underneath the stars without a noisy campsite neighbor with screaming kids or a barking dog. I’ll probably still do some car camping, with day hikes, but I hope to break away from that when I can and stealth camp in the woods.  So I have invested in a bunch of stuff, including a new 65 liter Osprey Atmos pack, a Hennessy Hamock, a light weight cook set, a new sleeping bag, mattress, pad and some summer hike wear and other light weight camping gadgets.

The plan this weekend was originally to head up Saturday afternoon/ evening and depending on the timing, either catch some Z’s at the trailhead or hike in a short ways and find a suitable base camp. Then spend all day Sunday on “the bowl” in the Sandwich range. Well with all my preparation and tying up loose ends, Saturday afternoon quickly became Saturday night. With the long drive and the uncertainty of finding a camp spot on this busy holiday weekend, I decided instead to set the alarm for 4am and save the overnight for next time.

I have done enough of these where I have a routine down now. The day hike gear is all in the car so I can just wake and go. As usual the alarm goes off and it’s still dark so my first thought is “are you frik’n kidding me? “, followed by “What was I thinking?” , but I drag my ass outta bed and into the shower because I know I won’t forgive myself if I hit snooze. One stop to fill the tank, grab a coffee and a bite to eat and I’m off to the mountains. I can’t resist a pullover on 495 to get a shot of this amazing sunrise: a good omen for the day ahead of me. My drive as always, includes some Michael Hedges, followed by some Crosby Stills & Nash and finally the Alman Brothers finishing up with of course “Mountain Jam” just as I pull into the trailhead.

This one is on the southern edge of the whites in the sandwich wilderness, with the trailhead on a private property farm land near Squam Lake. Pulling into the Ferncroft parking area, I am blessed with some fine pre-hike photo ops on this gorgeous day, of the farmhouse with the Wonalancet Range Peaks as a backdrop. Time to hydrate stock up on electrolytes and start my warmup stretch routine, making sure I don’t rush through these and today I’ll add some post hike stretching as well. I went a little overboard on a recent Monadnock tune up hike and my knees were not too happy with me afterward. So I took the wakeup call and am doing everything I can, including some knee braces, to prolong their life and keep them on my team. I’ll keep it low and slow around Whiteface and Passaconaway loop today. I have 3 slightly different loop options mapped out, depending how it goes, but they all involve ascending Whiteface via Blueberry Ledge so this is where the day’s journey begins.

As I head up the trail, the trees waste no time speaking to me as if to embrace me in their arms and welcome me home. This is perfect timing for my return. Spring has definitely sprung in the whites and I am once again blessed with a perfect day. I am sure my luck is bound to run out one of these days with ma nature’s unpredictable mountain temper, so I am always thankful when she doesn’t unleash her wrath. For now, a warm breeze flows through the new green on every branch, the gentle song of birds fill the air, and the ground reveals the fresh bloom of painted trillium. An occasional friendly greeting from fellow hikers and their canine companions gives me just enough human interaction for the day, but mostly it is once again all about me and the mountain. It’s not as busy as I was expecting, perhaps because these 2 peaks are not the mainstream choice of most on this holiday weekend, but it’s the perfect choice for me.

It’s not too long before an open rock face and clearing give me my first glimpse through the trees to the surrounding hills and lakes below. I capture the view the best I can on camera then back into the tree cover I go. There are a few groups I seem to be playing tag team with today, all sharing in the day’s blessings. When I explain my solo mountain hikes to friends and family, I often get the reaction of “I really wish you wouldn’t go alone”, to which my response is always “I AM NOT ALONE”: There is a spiritual presence in the hills I don’t feel anywhere else, not to mention, there is never a hiker too far away. So I have company both spiritually and literally.

Well so far so good on keeping the knees happy. All seems to be in working order and in good rhythm: My breathing, footing, joints, and muscles, all in tune working in unison with the terrain as a team. Taking regularly spaced breaks at perfect spots to take in way more views than I was expecting, each more breathtaking than the next, although these vistas give my breath back to me (inhale deep/exhale slow).

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As I reach the final lookout of Whiteface, before the true summit, I catch up with one of the young couples I have seen throughout the day. I pick out a spot on one of the rock slabs, and exchange stories and pleasantries with them and another couple and their dog over a sandwich while we all take in the magnificent view. Once refueled and rested, I get back to it and set off for summit number two: Passaconaway, keeping an eye out for a small cairn in the woods marking the Whiteface summit. A while passes and I realize I must’ve passed it. Oh well, onward and upward.

I am now passed the south facing trails and heading slightly down and across a more northern exposure. I encounter an occasional patch of snow, that has STILL not melted, but this is the only sign of winter left with the sun shining down upon me making these last remnants a fond memory. The breeze has picked up now as they tend to do along ridgelines, and the views down and across the bowl and off to the north and northwest continue to present themselves. I refer to my maps to identify some of the peaks but don’t waste too much time on this, as I want to keep up my pace that has served me well to this point. I hear there’s a peak finder app and a book that both help pick out the peaks in view. Maybe I will check them out.

Meeting up one last time with the tag-team couple (never got their names) at a lookout point close to the 2^nd summit, I ask them if they saw the Whiteface marker, in fear that I had missed a trail somewhere. They respond with “You mean it wasn’t where we had lunch?” which I guess is a common mistake people make on this mountain. Another gentleman informs us that we passed it on our way along Rollins… WHEW!! He also recommends taking a side trail down about 0.3 miles to the best lookout of the day before heading up to the wooded summit of Passaconaway.

He was absolutely right! It was well worth the extra steps. Great views to be had of the Hancocks and Tripyramids, which I have not climbed yet, as well as some of the Presi’s including a snow capped Washington. I take in the panorama and reflect on the day and thank the powers that be, congratulating Him on his latest masterpiece.

click here for video of the amazing view

Why must the things that go up, always come down?? The time has come for me to start my least favorite part as far as physical wear n tear go. I always find fighting gravity more difficult than the workout of climbing, especially on the knees. But I will take it slow and steady and rely on my poles to take me safely down the Dicey Mill Trail.